charging system blues

You know the easy test for this is just to disconnect the battery NEGATIVE cable,with the engine idling. If it stalls, the charging system ain't putting out. If it didn't stall turn the headlights on. If it stalls now, turn off the key reconnect the battery, full field the alt and repeat the test.If no change get a replacement alternator. But; If now it takes both the ignition load and the headlight load, shut it off. Reconnect the battery, clean the grounds on the regulator,reconnect it,and repeat the test. If no change get a new regulator.But If now it takes both the loads, shut it off and reconnect the battery. Problem solved with No voltmeter required.The regulator cannot work unless it is well grounded.
If the battery cranks the engine, it is good.
If the charging system test above still does not charge the battery, then there is a poor connection between the alternator side of the bulkhead connector and the battery. And the most common areas to fail are: the bulkhead connectorS, the fusible link,the ignition sw and the ammeter. Look on Del's drawing or the updated one; those are the connecting points.
The wires very rarely fail.
Looking good does not mean are good.
Good looking doesn't mean anything when it comes to wiring,lol.
Now, some fellows might tell you that disconnecting the battery negative on a running engine spells disaster for the system. Well maybe it does I can't say. But I can say that in the 44 years that I've been doing it, on NON-EFI cars, nothing bad has ever happened.