Won't go into first when warm/Reverse Grind when warm

I don't mean to be rude but you know you can go back and edit your posts for spelling and such,right?
So It looks like the transmission is out and you're trying to indicate the retainer hole, right?
You may have to remove one of the crank-bolts to make room for the magnetic base, or to bolt a plate on. It is very tricky to do with just the two straight arms, and still be able to see the dial, but it can be done. And the flywheel will be a bunch easier to turn,if you remove the sparkplugs.
So if the trans is out;
inspect the input gear for bluing in the pilot bearing area, or metal transfer from the crank.
and make sure the disc slides freely back and forth over the splined area.
If you have the sidecover off the trans;
check the space between the low-gear brass ring and the base of the clutching teeth.Just gently push the slider towards the back of the case, but not over the struts. If it slips over, stop!, back up and start over. If it slips over and you continue to slide it towards the back, it is possible to shift the slider too far and then the struts will pop out the backside. It's tricky to put them back in but it can be done. I just want to save you that frustration,lol. Ok so back to the brass to base measurement. I have no spec for that, so you will have to compare it to the input gear which usually has the least amount of wear. If I had to guess, then I'd like to see more than .060, probably closer to .080.
If you can see witness marks on the gear where the brass has been touching it,and it looks like this brass did it, then that brass is junk. But usually it will disengage from the struts and spin before it gets that bad. Which also makes it junk,lol. But I'm pretty sure this is NOT your problem.
So let's go look at that disc. First inspect the hub for cracks, especially around the spring pockets. Then check the pucks for lost or loose rivets. Then look for the organic lining separating or buckling off the metal plate. Check the thickness in several places to be sure it's not coming apart.Next slide it onto the input shaft. Put the trans in second or third, and rotate the output shaft, while checking the disc for wobble as it rotates. If you can clearly see it, you will have to get more scientific. If you have a spare input, grab it and put everything in a lathe and check it again. With no input, you'll have to figure something else out.The rear yoke will have to be in the tail to steady the M/S else it will introduce another error.
Obviously with a plate-departure of .080, the total indicator runout should be less than that. I run a lot less departure, so I can shift faster, as less time is spent taking up the slack,lol. But I also have adjust it more often.
If you find the disc OK, then you will have to check that the PP finger heights are all the same.
Don't forget to check your crank end-play and your fork pivot, and that the Z-bar is not sliding around.