offset bushing

Well my experience was a little different; but first I agree with everyone that says these are now a mandatory upgrade to the factory UCAs.
In my case I was able to get 6 and near 6 degrees of caster with zero camber. But I had to give up about 1.5 degrees per side to get .8 degrees of negative camber. And then, at the ride height I had selected, the bump steer was wicked. So I mapped it out, ( I was a tech at the time, and had unlimited access to the machine, after hours and Saturdays),and found the sweetspot that the front end was designed for, and set the ride height there. Of course that stole some more caster. So then I had to lower the rear of the car to get some back. In the end,after equalizing the sides, I had less than 4 degrees left over. So then I had to check the bump-steer again. And then I spent the best part of the day fixing that.
Then another roadtest. The factory toe-in just would not work, and I traced it to the scrub-radius. So I threw those wheels into the corner, and ordered up a custom set of 15s and some sticky-ish tires. I rechecked the bump steer, and reset the toe. And another roadtest. Ok now I was getting close. But that .8* camber was not gonna work, it was eating rubber at an alarming rate. I reset the camber to-.6ish , and redid the bump steer. And the toe . And more roadtests.
Keep in mind that this was with new and/or almost new parts.
So the factory tow setting was just not gonna work.
So I took my IR gun, and my toe-setting tools, and over the next couple of weeks I played with toe adjustments and tire pressures, in the field.
Soon I had it working pretty good, but those dang tires liked to follow pavement ruts pretty bad. You know, the grooves that the big-rigs leave on the softer tarmacs.And at normal speeds they had a tendency to wander annoyingly.
So back onto the rack for a final look see, and to center the steering box . And print a copy of what finally did work.
Shortly afterwards those soft SP8000s (245/50-15s)wore out. Flat across the faces. Great! And that was a lotta money for the fun-factor given, and winter was returning. So I tossed those worn outSPs and shelved the 8inch Rallys they came on,and dug out a set of zero offset 14" ET-IIs I had,and mounted up a pair of 235/60-14s which were about the same tall as the earlier tires.
And that was when it hit me............ These tires did not hunt......... Nor wander.
Ok so I learned my lesson.
These tires do like .6 camber. And they corner fast enough for me,lol. It turns out, those SPs were letting me get away with a lotta lack of finesse. These so called crappy Cobras/BFGs, do just fine for this now-much-older and more laid-back, old man,lol. And they give me plenty of screaming advance notice of the pain I am causing them. But by that time the 1.03s are fully wound up, and the front end is on the stops, and the slide has officially begun.Steering is now by gas-pedal. Hang on boys!,this'll all be over in a sec.....
That's my story and I'm sticking to it. I call it the summer of a thousand alignments.

So yeah, you gotta get those problem-solvers, for sure.
And IMO;
you need to stick pretty close to a Zero-offset front wheel, at close to the factory tire height, to maintain the factory scrub radius, and keep the ride height as close to the factory setting as possible; 0.8* negative camber is on the heavy side for wide rubber on the street; Rake steels caster;you need a big front anti-swaybar; you need 400 hp to have some serious fun;and big tires in the back, so the back stays in the back when the tires are spinning; and you need a private playground, cuz the cops don't like to see you doing that chit on city streets.