Adjustable strut rods
Heim joints are probably just fine on a car that will see only a few thousand road miles a year and get regular maintenance (although I'll never put them on a Jeep again). Keep them clean and lubricated and you'll be fine. Will they last 150K miles? Doubtful, but do they need to?
The issue with moving the pivot point back towards the arm, which a heim will tend to do, is that the LCA end will move in a tighter arc as the suspension goes up and down. because it moves in an arc, there will be some change in effective length and therefore caster. But since most of the time when we modify the front suspension we increase the wheel rate (bigger bars) and reduce the amount of travel (lowering). I suspect the amount of geometry change is pretty insignificant. The ability to adjust the length of the bars without taking the suspension apart is probably of greater benefit.
Sometimes Ehrenberg gets a little hung up on the little details and lets the "perfect" be the enemy of the "probably good enough."
To some extent yes, You will minimize the pitfalls EBooger speaks of, but He's 100% correct. The strut-rod and LCA are traveling in two different arcs that have to either
converge, diverge, or overlap in a combination of the two. Do Yourself a favor, set the LCA at the proposed angle for the anticipated ride height, with the strut-rod thru the
K-frame and no bushings or washers, slide a small straight-edge down across the holes in the frame touching the rod....then wrap a piece of masking tape at that point.
Then work the LCA thru it's range of travel & watch the end of that rod, there has to be some give there, with or without the links & regardless of the shift in pivot point.
It changes angle, rolls, & moves in and out....that's just the way it is with that set-up. With big bars avg. suspension travel is definitely reduced, and so too are the less
desirable effects, but they're still there. Pivots with
just enough cushion up frt. is the ideal set-up to balance precision & give.