Dyno pull

Duster 383 said
All this is good info as far as the start. The initial start it fires up for about one second then dies. After that good luck it's flooded out and the only way to get it running is a little starting fluid. Then it runs fine ...but I will say this after about 10 mins at idle it starts to burn your eyes and lungs..hahaha

Yes it is good procedure the guys have given you.
Do yourself (and us) a favor, get a notebook and use it. It can be digital - that doesn't matter. Have one section - beginning would be good, write down all you can about the parts on the engine. Intake will have brand and partnumber or name cast in it. Headers - you can measure the tubing outer diameter and look at pictures on-line until you get a match. Carb - if it has its choke tower - Holley's will have a list number stamped on it. Leave space for stuff you'll figure out later.

Duster 383 said
We just payed for pulls ...this shop was all computer guys no carb guys ....have to find someone that can

I don't know what they were doing with an LM2 Wideband if it wasn't integrated into their dyno data, or at least was picking up rpm from an inductive clamp. If you want my .02 on chassis dyno tuning look further down in this subforum - title of the thread is something like "nothing to compare with"

Back to what the other guys were posting. You'll need a timing light, a tach, and a vacuum gage is helpful, as is timing tape. Get the cold and warm idle figured out. If the engine is running like garbage at idle, it will lose time responding to the wide open throttle. Also its just bad for the engine. If its got a choke, see if you can make it work. If no choke, then you're gonna nave to learn how to start it without one and then two foot it until it warms up enough.