Install a Tremec T56 Magnum in your A-body
I don't understand this at all.
The only difference with a hydraulic clutch is how the throwout bearing is moved. That's it. Mechanical linkage vs. hydraulic pressure. The clutch itself can be exactly the same, there's no change necessary in the pressure plate or clutch disk. Clutch engagement, plate pressures, slip, etc. can all be identical to a mechanical clutch. And hydraulic clutches have decades of proven success as well. They've been in high performance production vehicles like Corvette's, Vipers, etc for that long. Heck all of the Viper T56's have always had hydraulic clutches.
And the hydraulic system is no different than the one used for braking. It's the same thing, all of the exact same principles apply. So, if you know how your brakes work, you know how the hydraulic clutch works- there's no additional knowledge or aptitude needed. If anything, the hydraulic clutch system probably has fewer moving parts than most mechanical clutch linkages. And, if set up properly, there's no slop from the interaction between the pins and bushings and pivots that you have in a mechanical system. So, the hydraulic set up can be more precise if correctly installed.
The only possible issue between the two is pedal feel. But, just like your brakes, this can be adjusted. The diameter of the master cylinder, pedal ratio and travel can all be adjusted to tailor the feel of the pedal. Just like the braking system. I don't see anyone converting over to mechanically actuated brakes to get better brake pedal feel. Heck most people seem to want power brakes to make the effort even less, which further reduces feel.
The biggest issue with the hydraulic clutches is the conversion. You have to plan it out, just like you plan out a brake master cylinder change or disk upgrade- you need to figure out what works best with the pedal ratio, feel, and available travel. The firewall reinforcement should be obvious, just look at the brake pedal and master right next to it. Plate, pedal bracket to stiffen the firewall- you need the same thing for a clutch master. And it can be super easy, like this
Just a 1/8" homemade plate with some non-precision holes welded to the pedal bracket (not mine). Or as easy as buying something like this Wilwood Master Cylinder Adapter Brackets 250-3677
Certainly not nearly as complicated as having an precision machined adaptor plate custom made to use a bellhousing not designed for use with a T56 you can have a bell with provisions for mechanical linkage, and then making that mechanical linkage yourself.
Most of the pitfalls covered on this site about hydraulic clutches are installation issues- not bleeding the master cylinder or slave properly, not setting up the pedal ratio/throw correctly, or not setting the clearance on the throwout bearing right. A quick search will show you that those are by far the biggest issues folks have. Some of those are no different than installing a new brake master cylinder (bench bleed, bleed the system), and the rest are usually either being unfamiliar with setting up the throwout clearance for a hydraulic system, or related to it being a conversion/retro fit that requires some planning and tuning because a lot of people do it as a custom installation rather than buying a conversion kit.
I don't understand this at all.
The only difference with a hydraulic clutch is how the throwout bearing is moved. That's it. Mechanical linkage vs. hydraulic pressure. The clutch itself can be exactly the same, there's no change necessary in the pressure plate or clutch disk. Clutch engagement, plate pressures, slip, etc. can all be identical to a mechanical clutch. And hydraulic clutches have decades of proven success as well. They've been in high performance production vehicles like Corvette's, Vipers, etc for that long. Heck all of the Viper T56's have always had hydraulic clutches.
And the hydraulic system is no different than the one used for braking. It's the same thing, all of the exact same principles apply. So, if you know how your brakes work, you know how the hydraulic clutch works- there's no additional knowledge or aptitude needed. If anything, the hydraulic clutch system probably has fewer moving parts than most mechanical clutch linkages. And, if set up properly, there's no slop from the interaction between the pins and bushings and pivots that you have in a mechanical system. So, the hydraulic set up can be more precise if correctly installed.
The only possible issue between the two is pedal feel. But, just like your brakes, this can be adjusted. The diameter of the master cylinder, pedal ratio and travel can all be adjusted to tailor the feel of the pedal. Just like the braking system. I don't see anyone converting over to mechanically actuated brakes to get better brake pedal feel. Heck most people seem to want power brakes to make the effort even less, which further reduces feel.
The biggest issue with the hydraulic clutches is the conversion. You have to plan it out, just like you plan out a brake master cylinder change or disk upgrade- you need to figure out what works best with the pedal ratio, feel, and available travel. The firewall reinforcement should be obvious, just look at the brake pedal and master right next to it. Plate, pedal bracket to stiffen the firewall- you need the same thing for a clutch master. And it can be super easy, like this
Just a 1/8" homemade plate with some non-precision holes welded to the pedal bracket (not mine). Or as easy as buying something like this Wilwood Master Cylinder Adapter Brackets 250-3677
Certainly not nearly as complicated as having an precision machined adaptor plate custom made to use a bellhousing not designed for use with a T56 you can have a bell with provisions for mechanical linkage, and then making that mechanical linkage yourself.
Most of the pitfalls covered on this site about hydraulic clutches are installation issues- not bleeding the master cylinder or slave properly, not setting up the pedal ratio/throw correctly, or not setting the clearance on the throwout bearing right. A quick search will show you that those are by far the biggest issues folks have. Some of those are no different than installing a new brake master cylinder (bench bleed, bleed the system), and the rest are usually either being unfamiliar with setting up the throwout clearance for a hydraulic system, or related to it being a conversion/retro fit that requires some planning and tuning because a lot of people do it as a custom installation rather than buying a conversion kit.
