67 Fastback getting 8.8 rear

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I received my EPSO+1 6 leaf springs today. They look like quality springs. First thing I noticed was the double strapping on each end of the springs compared to the single ones on the 5 leaf stockers. Also, the locator pin is a little taller maybe by 1/4" which is nice if I need to use shims. Laura's customer service was great. I could not make up my mind between stock ride height and the +1's. With the +1's. you can see the difference towards the back of the spring by the hanger. These 6 leafs should complement the 1.03" PST torsion bars i installed this past summer.
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Started setting up my springs today with the offset shackles. The Dr. Diff bolts are 4" which leaves you no room to put the nut on the shackles. I ran to ace hardware to get 4.5" bolts. Everything went together pretty smooth but you do need to pay attention to the way the shackles are orientated they do only go on one way. I also through in some new outer axle bearings/seals for cheap insurance.
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8.8 is under the car without issue so far. Epso springs went together nice with the Dr. Diff 1/2" offset shackle kit. Also, having the Moroso leaf perches with the correct locating pin hole made it drop in and line up perfectly. I will have to cut drive shaft down a little.
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I have two 15"x7" cop wheels. Which would fit perfectly under the car with the 4.25 BS. I'm thinking with cooper cobras 255/60/15's.
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However, I did see these 19x7.5's with a 42mm offset and wondered if I can make them fit. Anyone run 19" with success? They come off a 2008 Dodge Caliber CSRT. I have exactly 6" from the leaf spring to the rotor mounting base. I would probably have to run a 1" spacer to get the tire away from the spring. I believe a 42mm offset turns out to be 5.9" just shy of 6" offset. Not sure what I got for room in the front. I would have to put on the new POL disk brake conversion kit with the tubular a arms to figure that one out. Question is do I do a modern or classic look? Its just a fun street car project so I really could go either way with it and Ill be happy just wanted to get a few opinions. With a 225/45/19 tire that is right at 27" which is about the same as a 255/60/15. But for the front I am not so sure it would work. I do have the PST 1.03 torsion bars I could crank up but that is a lot of circumference for the wheel well to swallow.
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I Received my Allstar Performance shock plates and studs. I cutoff the shock stud tube seen in the photos. That way the shock mounting studs will fit and line up correctly for my application. Also, I will reuse the 8.8 U-bolts which fit in the shock plate if I squeeze them by hand. However, I might just elongate the holes a little so they slide right in without issue or undo stress.
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After wallowing out the holes on the shock plates everything bolted up nicely. My shocks seem about 1" short with the suspensions having no load. Makes sense because i have the +1 epso springs. Do I need longer shocks or do I just put a little weight on it to get the shocks mounted? I have read that some folks use b-body shocks with the SS springs but those are about 4" over stock. I will attempt to lift the rear with a jack to get the shocks on and if necessary ill replace them later with Blisteins or KYB's.
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dartfreak75 said:
Following i want to see how this turns out
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dartfreak75, it turned out great. I have been done with it for several months now. I moved to GA recently and haven't been keeping up with my thread. "busy" I will answer any questions you have and throw up some more pics later when I can re-focus on my car and not all this house work. But here is a few of my shorted drive shaft with the conversion joint for the 8.8.
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Do you happen to remember how much you had to chop off of your driveline?
 
Can you send a side shot of the car with the 19s on her. I want to ditch my 17s not many tires choices in them anymore
 
rednesss said:
Do you happen to remember how much you had to chop off of your driveline?
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Redness, well the panhandle drive-line shop had me measure from the edge of the tail shaft on the transmission to the edge of the flat flange yoke on the 8.8. It was 511/8" with the 727/8.8. The pictures below should give the idea of where to measure. Just be mindful that the picture below is with my old 71/4". Some shops do it differently so get it all together and call your local shop and get there recommendation on where to measure. The receipt has the spicer conversion part number for your reference. Every car is slightly different.
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loganscuda said:
Can you send a side shot of the car with the 19s on her. I want to ditch my 17s not many tires choices in them anymore
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loganscuda,
I missed typed in previous post there 18's not 19's. Not a good pic. Don't mind all my rust and shitty panels that's next years project. I've been trying to get the drive-line set up and suspension addressed. Next year I'm cutting panels off. Any how with the 18x9's so far no issues 285/35/18 rear 245/40/18 fronts. I will be going a little wider on the front because the tire doesn't protect the rim lip. I'm thinking 265/35/18 or 255/40/18.
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Can you post what part numbers the bearings and seals were? And I must have missed it, which passenger side axle did you get to go in there?

Thanks

67/6barracuda said:
Started setting up my springs today with the offset shackles. The Dr. Diff bolts are 4" which leaves you no room to put the nut on the shackles. I ran to ace hardware to get 4.5" bolts. Everything went together pretty smooth but you do need to pay attention to the way the shackles are orientated they do only go on one way. I also through in some new outer axle bearings/seals for cheap insurance. View attachment 1715130441 View attachment 1715130442 View attachment 1715130443 View attachment 1715130444
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rednesss said:
Can you post what part numbers the bearings and seals were? And I must have missed it, which passenger side axle did you get to go in there?

Thanks
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I actually bought two 8.8’s 1 for 50.00 the other for 75.00 and took the short side axle out of it. I bought the outer bearings and seals on eBay the part number for bearings is 1559. These Torrington bearings fit great. I know my pic says GM 8.5 axle but a 1559 is same thing for many applications.


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I know there is an 8.8 Sticky thread but it is all over the place with info. You should have the admin move this to a how to article. This thread will make it a lot easier for people to do the 8.8 swap. Most don’t do because of the cutting and welding but the way you did by cutting the end off makes it a lot easier and worry free. When I cut and welded mine I was worried it would not be true. Nice job and great documentation.
 
loganscuda said:
I know there is an 8.8 Sticky thread but it is all over the place with info. You should have the admin move this to a how to article. This thread will make it a lot easier for people to do the 8.8 swap. Most don’t do because of the cutting and welding but the way you did by cutting the end off makes it a lot easier and worry free. When I cut and welded mine I was worried it would not be true. Nice job and great documentation.
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You are absolutely right about that - cutting and welding - That's my major hang-up! with never having welded before - well that and not having a tool that can cleanly cut to shorten the tube. ohhhhh and add to all of this that the local JY want upwards of $350 for an Explorer 8.8 - has completely detracted me for moving forward on doing this. However, this option looks more do-able. however I do have one question, maybe I missed something but did you measure and cut the almost 3" off the end of the tube or from the line you scribed?

Actually I have another question: what were the "PLUG" holes on the differential refilled or replugged with?
 
prican_2000 said:
You are absolutely right about that - cutting and welding - That's my major hang-up! with never having welded before - well that and not having a tool that can cleanly cut to shorten the tube. ohhhhh and add to all of this that the local JY want upwards of $350 for an Explorer 8.8 - has completely detracted me for moving forward on doing this. However, this option looks more do-able. however I do have one question, maybe I missed something but did you measure and cut the almost 3" off the end of the tube or from the line you scribed?

Actually I have another question: what were the "PLUG" holes on the differential refilled or replugged with?
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The plugs are mig welded after it’s pressed back in. I did the press out and in method for several reasons. It self aligns itself when it’s pressed back in. You don’t have to make a precision cut either because when you press it back in there is at least a 3/16” gap before the tube hits the inside of the carrier and it’s that way from the factory. You can validate that by looking inside at the other axle tube that’s not pressed out. So if your cut is not perfect it’s not a big deal. Weld the plugs and go the extra mile and weld the tube to the carrier housing.
 
67/6barracuda said:
The plugs are mig welded after it’s pressed back in. I did the press out and in method for several reasons. It self aligns itself when it’s pressed back in. You don’t have to make a precision cut either because when you press it back in there is at least a 3/16” gap before the tube hits the inside of the carrier and it’s that way from the factory. You can validate that by looking inside at the other axle tube that’s not pressed out. So if you cut is not perfect it’s not a big deal. Weld the plugs and go the extra mile and weld the tube to the carrier housing.
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Oh and I get my 8.8’s cheap on Craigslist, let go, Facebook market, or offer up. If you pay more than 150 you paid to much.
 
Yearly Update: I wanted to let folks know that with the 8.8 and the dr diff 1/2” spring relocation, I get exactly 6” from spring to the mounting surface on brake rotor. I picked up some 15x9” w/4.5” BS cop wheels on a trade. I plan to run 295/50/15 or maybe even the 60 series. Should be near a perfect fit.
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dartfreak75 said:
This is the step I'm at I was back on forth on how to tackle this. I'm gonna do it this way looks good and its free!
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It worked but my original e brake lines are old, rusty, and frozen up now so I’ll have to replace them. There were a few other examples on how to do it on here. You’ll have to try searching them up.
 
67/6barracuda said:
It worked but my original e brake lines are old, rusty, and frozen up now so I’ll have to replace them. There were a few other examples on how to do it on here. You’ll have to try searching them up.
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Yea I saw a few different ways but all of the required buying an adapter I'd rather fab what I already have lol
 
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