[Found!] 1968 Barracuda Headlight Retainer Spring
- Thread starter Traxfish
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1968 Plymouth Barracuda Parts | MN1775 | 1968-71 Mopar A/B/E-Body With 2 Lamp System Headlamp Adjustment Set | Classic Industries
shipping is pricey but thy have them
shipping is pricey but thy have them
Traxfish
Convertible Cruiser
Got it ordered. Thanks!
Traxfish
Convertible Cruiser
Whoops. Thanks though. I've still got a long list of parts needed I can run buy you to see if you have any lying around.
Traxfish
Convertible Cruiser
The old adjustment screws were rusty and had a lot of play in them so I tried to install the new ones with the kit. It was a pain to get the old ones out and I had to mangle them. The new ones didn't just snap in as I assumed. I tried hammering them in until the plastic retainers inside the clips broke. I even tried taking the plastic retainer out and seeing if they will just snap in once the metal clip is installed, but they won't.
Are there any tricks to installing these? Is there a tool needed?
Are there any tricks to installing these? Is there a tool needed?
The plastic housing the adjustment screws screw into that have a metal casing need to be put in first without the screws. Easiest way is place them into the square holes and hit them straight in with a 6-8" section of wood like 1" square. Takes a pretty good force once or twice each to seat them down. Then the screws can be screwed in when the buckets are installed after the springs are screwed in too. New plastics need to be used or the old ones will just strip from age.
I was looking at the photos on classic ind site for your year Barracuda and looking at my 1967 dart versions and looking at your photo of your broken spring which just barely shows the headlight adjuster.
In the case of my 67 Dart. There is a metal piece that has to be removed so the plastic can be squeezed to remove from sheet metal. learned this the hard way!
The 68 barracuda image on Classic's site it looks like they are showing the adjuster being installed from the rear of the sheet metal but your photo looks like it is installed from the front (similar to my dart) I suspect they put the screw in backwards for their photo.
I think the key is to remove the screw.With the screw removed there should be more room in the sheet metal hole to insert the parts. Perhaps with the screw removed warm the part to relax the plastic, hot water or the sun, I would not take a torch to it.
Alternately it looks like you could remove the screw and if you can separate the plastic from the metal, insert the metal first to the sheet metal, then insert the plastic into the metal and then screw the adjuster in last, like RR70 noted above.
Sorry you broke one trying to install it, that is so frustrating. I have a saying that "if I can brake one I can remove the others intact" especially when it is not obvious how things come apart.
In the case of my 67 Dart. There is a metal piece that has to be removed so the plastic can be squeezed to remove from sheet metal. learned this the hard way!
The 68 barracuda image on Classic's site it looks like they are showing the adjuster being installed from the rear of the sheet metal but your photo looks like it is installed from the front (similar to my dart) I suspect they put the screw in backwards for their photo.
I think the key is to remove the screw.With the screw removed there should be more room in the sheet metal hole to insert the parts. Perhaps with the screw removed warm the part to relax the plastic, hot water or the sun, I would not take a torch to it.
Alternately it looks like you could remove the screw and if you can separate the plastic from the metal, insert the metal first to the sheet metal, then insert the plastic into the metal and then screw the adjuster in last, like RR70 noted above.
Sorry you broke one trying to install it, that is so frustrating. I have a saying that "if I can brake one I can remove the others intact" especially when it is not obvious how things come apart.
Sorry just reread your post about trying everything I just mentioned above without luck, is the replacement part the same dimensionality and shape as your OE part?
Traxfish
Convertible Cruiser
The new parts looks the same as the old ones, just without the age. I might try the block of wood approach, but what I'm worried about is that the frame to house the adjustment screws is sort of floating, so that force is resonating through that frame causing it to bounce and I'm worried I'm going to bust the rivets or welds or however it was attached to the front of the body.
Some type of c clamp setup maybe? Can you post some photos? cant imagine that the factory would make it other than a hand press in operation. With the screw out are you squeezing the metal tabs toward the center of the part as you try to insert?
Traxfish
Convertible Cruiser
I tried again with a section of wooden dowel and got them in there pretty well. They are not completely snapped in but I can't just pull them out. It appears the force has bent the slot for them. I put everything back together and with the spring in place there's little movement so I'm going to go with that for now.
The new ones you buy DO have the bolt inserted backwards. Maybe it's easier at the point of manufacture.
The plastic bases need to be seated all the way down or they may pull out when the bucket is installed under the tension of the spring.
The plastic bases need to be seated all the way down or they may pull out when the bucket is installed under the tension of the spring.
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