wheel adapter

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twistthethro said:
"Trans-Dapt 7066 Wheel Adapters" is this the correct adapter to go from 5x4 to 5x4.5?
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I had those but didn't end up using them. You could probably use them in the rear of the car but not in the front. A friend tried using them on a 67 barracuda 9" drum all around and the back work out fine but the front kept loosening only after a few miles. Even torque with red lock tight.
 
Yes, that’s the adapter to go from 5x4” to 5x4.5”.

But- that’s a cast adaptor. I’ve seen that type crack on more than one occasion. Adaptors are fine, but I only use ones machined from billet.

They’re also 1” thick. So, the backspace on your new wheels need to be 1” more than your current wheels if you want them to fit the same. Stock wheels don’t usually work with a 1” adapter because of the backspace, and if you’re looking at 15” rims you’ll probably need a custom wheel to get enough backspace to run a decent size tire.
 
thanks just an idea I have, looking for something temporary in the back for now to use 5x4.5 wheels and change axles later down the road
 
twistthethro said:
thanks just an idea I have, looking for something temporary in the back for now to use 5x4.5 wheels and change axles later down the road
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I have a trashed fender handing on my shop wall to remind me how i feel about cast wheel adaptors...
very good advice above...billet hubcentric, or save your $ and order new axles with the right BP....very wise words.
 
better listen to experience than learn it the hard way. this is my first project where everything needs to be gone through so my thoughts are swimming. I need this website to get it right but I am sure I will learn from error on some things I do anyway. thank you guys for the help
 
my concern is I plan to narrow the rear and trying to decide the width of the axle with the wheel and tire I plan to use and tubing and on and on and on
 
Never use cast adapters!

Just go to WheelAdapter.com Or call Fred Goeske 818-992-5700
and get the billet aluminum ones that never fail. I've used them on cars and off road trucks, never had an issue.

I just narrowed my rear for a mini tub on a Duster. I like the look of a 0 offset 12-13" wide rim, but those are hard to find under $1000 a piece. I ended up just widening a 11" wide rim at Weldcraft. So, I get where you might want to narrow the rear more than rim selections available will work. And then just make up the difference with an adapter...
 
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dirty white boy said:
can have your axles re drilled to 4.5! some say its un safe but mosler dose it all the time!
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The way most people do it is unsafe. Sending them to Moser is a different story, but they charge accordingly. For around $300 you can just buy brand new axles from Dr.Diff that will be much stronger than the stock ones ever were, and lose the narrow, hard to find parts for SBP brakes at the same time.

twistthethro said:
my concern is I plan to narrow the rear and trying to decide the width of the axle with the wheel and tire I plan to use and tubing and on and on and on
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Pick your wheels first, then decide on axle width. Honestly, pick your tires first. That will determine whether you need a mini-tub or not and the wheel width you need. Then you can pick the wheels, and you can do the math on the rear axle width from the wheel specs.
 
Actually, if I whee to do it all over again. I would just get a Dana 60 out of a newer truck wreck, cut off all the brackets and crap you don't need. Narrow it. Then buy the Mopar housing ends and new axles from Dr. Diff that have the 5-4-1/2" pattern.
 
oi81b4uu812b4 said:
Actually, if I whee to do it all over again. I would just get a Dana 60 out of a newer truck wreck, cut off all the brackets and crap you don't need. Narrow it. Then buy the Mopar housing ends and new axles from Dr. Diff that have the 5-4-1/2" pattern.
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You can actually do this with the old Ford truck Dana 60's, like, 1970's. I've seen guys use stock 8 3/4 axles too, the spline count is the same in those trucks. You just cut the D60 down to a mopar spec width and use 8 3/4 housing ends. Granted the axles aren't as strong if you do it that way, but you can do it on the cheap. Especially if you can do it yourself. I was getting complete rear axles, drum-drum from my local PicknPull for like $160. I picked up a couple C-body 8 3/4's like that. I suppose if I'd been smart I'd have grabbed one of those D60's before the '70's Fords became more scarce, but none of my cars have the kind of horsepower needed to really justify a D60 in a street car.
 
I think it’s important to point out that an old 8-3/4 is only worth the cost of the housing and what a rebuildable 489 case goes for. They all need to be rebuilt and gone through completely. By the time you straighten & narrow it, buy new axles, replace everything and add disk brakes you most likely will be around $2000-$3000. I don’t know if that’s worth the cost... DTS here in Michigan rebuilt mine with my parts for $160. That’s too good of s deal to me.

I’m taking it the OP wants the get the car rolling while it’s being worked on. You could drive I like that, but it’s easier to just get your suspension work done then buy your wheels. Your wheels will always have a funky looking offset to them if you want to run adapters on that old 5-4” bolt pattern.
 
oi81b4uu812b4 said:
I think it’s important to point out that an old 8-3/4 is only worth the cost of the housing and what a rebuildable 489 case goes for. They all need to be rebuilt and gone through completely. By the time you straighten & narrow it, buy new axles, replace everything and add disk brakes you most likely will be around $2000-$3000. I don’t know if that’s worth the cost... DTS here in Michigan rebuilt mine with my parts for $160. That’s too good of s deal to me.

I’m taking it the OP wants the get the car rolling while it’s being worked on. You could drive I like that, but it’s easier to just get your suspension work done then buy your wheels. Your wheels will always have a funky looking offset to them if you want to run adapters on that old 5-4” bolt pattern.
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Can’t say I agree with that assessment of the 8 3/4’s at all. All of the ones I’ve run are original. No straightening, no rebuild on the 3rd members, only thing I’ve done is wheel bearings. The 741 case in my Duster right now with 3.55’s came straight out of the wrecking yard. Quick inspection and installed. My Challenger went close to 70k miles like that, my Duster is on its way to 15k like that.

Maybe on some big horsepower car you’d need to do all that, but I’ve only come across one housing and 3rd member I wouldn’t run as is. And I’ve pulled at least half a dozen complete 8 3/4’s out of the local yards. I don’t think I’ve got more than $350 into the 8 3/4 in my Duster at the moment, and that includes buying the B-body housing and stock axles.
 
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oi81b4uu812b4 said:
There ya go
6 x $350 = $2100

Or just rebuild it and be done with it.
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Uh, your grasp of math is a little off. I have 6 different 8 3/4's, for 6 different projects, all of which I would run without hesitation. Or, I could have one rear end that works. That's not the same thing. I didn't buy 6 8 3/4's to get one good one, I bought 6 good ones. Well, more than that actually because I was talking about my wrecking yard finds, but whatever.

That doesn't even get into the fact that the rear axle in my Duster is one of the "expensive" ones, I have a couple C body and truck 8 3/4's that I picked up for $160, complete drum-to-drum, axles, center sections, all of it. I had to buy the B-body 8 3/4 for my Duster from another car guy, not a yard, so it cost more.
 
Oh, I see. I didn’t know good usable 50 year old 8-3/4’s were so available in your area.

I usually go to a 6600 car salvage yard filled with 50’s, 60’s and 70’s cars 30 miles from my house that has been closed for 30 years to the public and is invite only. I never find them with usable suregrips. You must be lucky.
 
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