It doesn't freak me out. I just don't want to have to buy a new Cam and lifter kit if I can't get it started and wipe a lobe. You do enough searching on this site and you think that happens most of the time!
The number 1 reason cams go flat is dicking around trying to get it started. I know guys who think cranking on it, jacking with the timing for 45 seconds or so is ok. It's not.
If you are using a fairly new lobe it needs to start like it was already tuned and you can hit the key and start it. If you can't set up your engine to start like that, get some help. Make sure you engine can run at essentially zero load without overheating. Having an engine running at a relatively fast idle for 25 minutes and have it get hot is just crazy.
I've never (nor will I ever) pull the inner springs out to break in a cam. If I need a cam that requires the innners removed, low ratio rockers and all that crap I use a roller cam. I run a Racer Brown lobe that is 280 advertised and 255 at .050 so it's a pretty fast lobe. In fact, I don't think you can use a Chevy lifter (.842 diameter) and I'm not sure you could slide by with a ford lifter (.875 diameter).
The point is with a little caution you can start all but the most aggressive SFT lobe.