SPECS ON PILOT BUSHING, CRANK PILOT HOLE ID AND INPUT SHAFT

jos51700 said

Have it rebushed?

Pack it with grease, pound a bolt or closed fitting rod in to drive it back out, slam the new one in using a socket that won't get stuck in the hole, and get on with your life.

The factory bushing is oilite. The tolerances on such parts are virtually non-existent. Look it up by number and go.
Make sure you get the one for a factory stickshift crank if that is what you have. if not and you're adding the rowing machine, go with the bearing.

No crank machinist is ever needed for this unless you're converting. It is literally a ten minute job once the clutch is out.

The bushing will shrink considerably upon install. Let me know if you can't find them.

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I'm sorry, I didn't make something clear. Rebushed was the term used by a crank regrinder that didn't know the specs. It doesn't mean the pilot bushing. This crank may have been an automatic crank that was drilled larger improperly. It is slightly large and out of round. So a machinist told me he could drill the hole larger and rebush it. I wanted to know the specs to do this and to know how much crush a new bushing (metal, I assume) to make it to stay put and then what to drill that out to, so the pilot bushing has the proper crush. Also I have another 340 crank that I installed a pilot bushing in, but the input shaft is very tight. There seems to be only .001" clearance.