Crooked K-Member

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leechris81

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Ok, I have looked and cannot find any threads related to this issue. I am not saying they are not there, I just can't find them. I have a 1973 Swinger that I just put new wheels and tires on. Upon getting them installed, I have found that the front-end sits off to the left more than the right by a considerable amount. I removed the factory bolts and put a set in that did not center the sub-frame like the originals. I then utilized a frame machine at work and pulled the k-member to the right. It is still offset enough to see with the naked eye. This is my first venture into Mopar cars and I am looking for some advice. Is it ok to slot the holes and slide it to the center? I am nearing this method with speed as spring is almost upon us and I want to drive the new rig. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 
Perhaps, your car was in a pretty major front end accident at some time. I am no expert on this, but I suggest taking it to a frame straightening shop. If you don't want to do that, or can't afford to do that I suggest using the water pump fan hub and the oem radiator and oem shroud to line up the frame horns and k-frame, by pulling the frame around to center the hub in the shroud fan opening, accordingly.
 
Pictures would help a lot. Are you sure the control arm bushings are good? Also the strut rod bushing? Is this set up with factory parts or do you have any aftermarket parts on it. It takes a lot to bend a k member but it can be done.
 
Perhaps, your car was in a pretty major front end accident at some time. I am no expert on this, but I suggest taking it to a frame straightening shop. If you don't want to do that, or can't afford to do that I suggest using the water pump fan hub and the oem radiator and oem shroud to line up the frame horns and k-frame, by pulling the frame around to center the hub in the shroud fan opening, accordingly.
the reason I suggest centering the body/ frame around the fan hub, is because I bought a 74 duster360 from my brother in law who piled it into parked car while drunk. When I hung new sheet metal on it and put a new rad and shroud in it, it interfered with the fan by about an inch on the right side, which meant the front end had been displaced to the left by at least that amount.
 
The K members have a factory offset for the engine to the passenger side so the steering column & related parts have clearance on the drivers side.

In my '70 Valiant, it is approximately 3".
 
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Check it with a 4-wheel alignment rack or a thrust angle alignment. I'll bet the K is just where it belongs, and you're getting an optical cue that is messing with your brain,lol.
You can also put it on a frame deck and string it. The frame has reference holes and points just for that purpose.
 
If you look in the various shop manuals, and they are free over at MyMopar, there is a chart showing frame cross-measurements
 
look at your pinion offset from center, that ~equals the factory motor offset. My headers almost touch the passenger side, driver side is much farther.
 
Perhaps, your car was in a pretty major front end accident at some time. I am no expert on this, but I suggest taking it to a frame straightening shop. If you don't want to do that, or can't afford to do that I suggest using the water pump fan hub and the oem radiator and oem shroud to line up the frame horns and k-frame, by pulling the frame around to center the hub in the shroud fan opening, accordingly.
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Perhaps, your car was in a pretty major front end accident at some time. I am no expert on this, but I suggest taking it to a frame straightening shop. If you don't want to do that, or can't afford to do that I suggest using the water pump fan hub and the oem radiator and oem shroud to line up the frame horns and k-frame, by pulling the frame around to center the hub in the shroud fan opening, accordingly.
First of all, thank you for your input. Fortunately, I am certain that the car has never been in a collision. I bought the car from the original owner and work with her grandson. Save for an alternator and some ignition parts, this car is nearly 100%. I still have Pentastars on my heater hoses (yes, they need changed). I actually have access to a frame straightening machine at work and that is how we slid the k to the right some already. I have no clearance issues anywhere but the front tires to the fenders. The left front sits further out than the right. The whole k was bolted up from the factory that way. With the stock wheels and tires, it was unnoticeable but with the 17's it is far more apparent.
 
Pictures would help a lot. Are you sure the control arm bushings are good? Also the strut rod bushing? Is this set up with factory parts or do you have any aftermarket parts on it. It takes a lot to bend a k member but it can be done.
Thank you for your help! I have not taken the control arm or strut rod bushings into account as of yet due to the amount that the front end is off center. The whole k sits to the left by 1/2" to 3/4". I am going to do more measurement this week (time allowing) and will try to post some more precise measurements and some pictures. There are no aftermarket parts in the front end yet. Everything on there is 45 years old, shocks included.
 
The K members have a factory offset for the engine to the passenger side so the steering column & related parts have clearance on the drivers side.

In my '70 Valiant, it is approximately 3".
Thank you for replying. The offset that I am concerned with is not the engine to k, but rather the k to the body. The left front tire is visible outside the front fender when looking down, while the right front is tucked neatly beneath the car. I am going to get some more detailed measurements and post later this week when I can get it back on the rack.
 
Check it with a 4-wheel alignment rack or a thrust angle alignment. I'll bet the K is just where it belongs, and you're getting an optical cue that is messing with your brain,lol.
You can also put it on a frame deck and string it. The frame has reference holes and points just for that purpose.
I have the alignment machine here but have been trying to dial in the large issue before fine tuning. It is noticeable how much the left front tire sticks out compared to the right. I wanted to get the track in line with the rear before correcting the camber/caster in the front. The thrust is fine now as I replaced the warped rear leaf packs with new Hotchkis set and measured center to center on both sides.
 
If you look in the various shop manuals, and they are free over at MyMopar, there is a chart showing frame cross-measurements
^^^^This
If you enlarge those images you can make out most of the points.............
FramDim.gif
 
Having been an alignment tech for several years, K would imagine that trying to set the camber on shifted K would have theCamber adjusters crossed up pretty hard. There's not a lot of adjustment range in those cams, and so to get the wheels straight up with any caster at all would be very difficult. Compare your side to side adjuster positions.
If you replaced those factory K bolts, the securment of the K to the frame will depend on the torque on the bolts......instead of the mechanical interlock of the shoulders on the bolts, to the holes. The way I drive, I don't think I could trust the K to stay there very long.
 
I bought a brand new cuda in 1970, that was wrecked before I took delivery. I'm still the original owner, but it had the left front fender replaced. Some people might not know the difference, but I can see all the evidence. I'm not saying that is your case, but what I am saying is, it happens.
Actually, a 1/2" difference doesn't sound that extreme. You said, yourself, that it wasn't noticeable with stock wheels/tires. Well, that's the way it came off the line, and if it looked OK then, and worked OK then, that was good enough for them back then.
 
Usually if the structure is that far off there are other signs. Ie, a bend or roll in an apron or rail. etc. Use a tram gauge to measure if they have one. Do check the suspension components and make sure it has the same stuff on both sides and check the backspacing on the wheels in case you got a mismatched/improperly boxed set.
 
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