18" wheels
A lot of aftermarket rims have a 73.1mm hub bore. Or at least they start out at that, and then will taper down to a smaller wheel cap. The Ford Bullit's, and some of the rims made specifically for the Mustang's, are only 70.5. The problem is that the mopar hubs are a lot taller than most modern cars. Meaning, on a lot of modern rims, the mopar hub will stick out past the front surface of the rim.
If you have wheel clearance to the fender, you can run a small spacer if that will help. Just depends on how much tire clearance you have. If you don't need much room to clear the rim, that could help a lot. And a small spacer won't hurt a thing as long as your wheel studs are long enough.
Even my Enkei RPF1's had issues, and they have a 73.1mm hub bore. That's what's listed as the hub bore spec. But, the wheel cap on the front side of the rim is only 64mm. So, even though my Dr. Diff hubs are only 68.5mm, the hub has to pass completely through the rim because the wheel itself is pretty thin (lightweight wheels). So I had the hub bores on my RPF1's machined. I run different width wheels front and rear so I wasn't going to rotate wheels/tires anyway, they already weren't hub-centric, and I didn't want to take any more material off of my aluminum hubs. I just made it 73mm all the way through, so it was an even surface. It was only $80 a wheel at my machinist. But then I had to do some custom work to fit a set of wheel caps. So on some wheels, even if the hub bore spec is 71mm or larger it doesn't necessarily mean the rims will fit without having some work done on the hub bore, because a lot of them taper down. It just depends on the design of the rim. The Legend 5's I run on my Challenger have a huge hub bore, but it wouldn't matter because the rims are thick in the center, the hub is still well within the wheel and the grease cap doesn't stick out. With the enkei's the hub itself actually comes out past the face of the rim.
And you can see the machine work I had done here. Left side is machined, right side is off the shelf.
And my custom made wheel caps. I cut the end off a "pull through" metal wheel cap to make it the same diameter as the wheel cap I was using in the back, just far enough out to clear everything. And then I epoxied the wheel cap in and painted the pull through cap to match the wheel.
A lot of aftermarket rims have a 73.1mm hub bore. Or at least they start out at that, and then will taper down to a smaller wheel cap. The Ford Bullit's, and some of the rims made specifically for the Mustang's, are only 70.5. The problem is that the mopar hubs are a lot taller than most modern cars. Meaning, on a lot of modern rims, the mopar hub will stick out past the front surface of the rim.
If you have wheel clearance to the fender, you can run a small spacer if that will help. Just depends on how much tire clearance you have. If you don't need much room to clear the rim, that could help a lot. And a small spacer won't hurt a thing as long as your wheel studs are long enough.
Even my Enkei RPF1's had issues, and they have a 73.1mm hub bore. That's what's listed as the hub bore spec. But, the wheel cap on the front side of the rim is only 64mm. So, even though my Dr. Diff hubs are only 68.5mm, the hub has to pass completely through the rim because the wheel itself is pretty thin (lightweight wheels). So I had the hub bores on my RPF1's machined. I run different width wheels front and rear so I wasn't going to rotate wheels/tires anyway, they already weren't hub-centric, and I didn't want to take any more material off of my aluminum hubs. I just made it 73mm all the way through, so it was an even surface. It was only $80 a wheel at my machinist. But then I had to do some custom work to fit a set of wheel caps. So on some wheels, even if the hub bore spec is 71mm or larger it doesn't necessarily mean the rims will fit without having some work done on the hub bore, because a lot of them taper down. It just depends on the design of the rim. The Legend 5's I run on my Challenger have a huge hub bore, but it wouldn't matter because the rims are thick in the center, the hub is still well within the wheel and the grease cap doesn't stick out. With the enkei's the hub itself actually comes out past the face of the rim.
And you can see the machine work I had done here. Left side is machined, right side is off the shelf.
And my custom made wheel caps. I cut the end off a "pull through" metal wheel cap to make it the same diameter as the wheel cap I was using in the back, just far enough out to clear everything. And then I epoxied the wheel cap in and painted the pull through cap to match the wheel.
