Has any one ran a Alternator with a internal voltage regulator?
I have a mini denso i am in the process of wiring up. The blue and green wires going to the regulator on the firewall you attach together to eliminate the external regulator. That is your input sense wire. Typically the denso aftermarket has 2 terminals in a T shape config, and an output stud. Terminals are labelled i and L. For ignition and light. I also took some time to wire up a small red light on my ammeter gage i converted to volts.
The way the light circuit works is when ign is on but car isnt running the L circuit shunts to ground internally in the alternator turning the light on. When you start up the car, and its producing electricity that circuit contactor shuts off and the light goes out. If the alternator goes off line while the car is running the circuit closes and the light goes on warning you of a fault.
Theres a nice kit thats sold to use a Toyota mini denso out of a 4 runner i think. I made my own mounting brackets, and spacer, and used a mini 50 amp one advertized for a small block chevy. Dont forget to upsize your output wiring, and bypass the bulkhead connector completely and run it straight to the battery with either a maxi fuse or fisable link in line. The stock 12GA output wiring was never meant for anything above 30 Amp. Neither was the bulkhead connector. Notice the red output lead. In the pic. Its 8GA marine grade AWG copper. I used a 12GA fusable link i made to protect it. Pico wiring sells the fusable link wiring in bulk to make them up yourself.
Heres pix of my install being mocked up. I used .125" thick 7475 T6 aluminum plate, and the spacer i made from steel blackpipe i got from home depot. I turned it on a lathe at work to make sure the ends were straight. Adjuster bolt is 13mm which equates to 1/2" wrench size. This little 50Amp powerhouse weighs almost nothing which is the other reason i used aluminum plate for the brackets, the first reason is i had to make mounting brackets to install it anyways. It feels solid w the aluminum brackets, but if they start to crack, i will remake them out of 1/8" steel plate.
Hope this helps
Matt
I have a mini denso i am in the process of wiring up. The blue and green wires going to the regulator on the firewall you attach together to eliminate the external regulator. That is your input sense wire. Typically the denso aftermarket has 2 terminals in a T shape config, and an output stud. Terminals are labelled i and L. For ignition and light. I also took some time to wire up a small red light on my ammeter gage i converted to volts.
The way the light circuit works is when ign is on but car isnt running the L circuit shunts to ground internally in the alternator turning the light on. When you start up the car, and its producing electricity that circuit contactor shuts off and the light goes out. If the alternator goes off line while the car is running the circuit closes and the light goes on warning you of a fault.
Theres a nice kit thats sold to use a Toyota mini denso out of a 4 runner i think. I made my own mounting brackets, and spacer, and used a mini 50 amp one advertized for a small block chevy. Dont forget to upsize your output wiring, and bypass the bulkhead connector completely and run it straight to the battery with either a maxi fuse or fisable link in line. The stock 12GA output wiring was never meant for anything above 30 Amp. Neither was the bulkhead connector. Notice the red output lead. In the pic. Its 8GA marine grade AWG copper. I used a 12GA fusable link i made to protect it. Pico wiring sells the fusable link wiring in bulk to make them up yourself.
Heres pix of my install being mocked up. I used .125" thick 7475 T6 aluminum plate, and the spacer i made from steel blackpipe i got from home depot. I turned it on a lathe at work to make sure the ends were straight. Adjuster bolt is 13mm which equates to 1/2" wrench size. This little 50Amp powerhouse weighs almost nothing which is the other reason i used aluminum plate for the brackets, the first reason is i had to make mounting brackets to install it anyways. It feels solid w the aluminum brackets, but if they start to crack, i will remake them out of 1/8" steel plate.
Hope this helps
Matt
