Upgrading stock 1971 318 heads

Hang on Mr /6,
9.0 is a world away from 8.1, lol.
Do yourself a favor and get an accurate compression test.
Accurate,as in: warm engine, fully charged battery, all plugs out, ignition disabled,and carb wired at WOT. With a known good gauge, crank until you get a minimum of two consecutive SAME or nearly the same,readings over 120 psi . Then you'll know what you got.
A noticeable lope is more indicative of a performance cam..... than of an RV cam. The lope is in the overlap, which is usually due to a long duration, which usually indicates a late closing intake, which reduces your Effective Compression Ratio, and specifically reduces your Dcr, and that drives your cylinder pressure into the basement on the cranking test.
Performance starts at about 145psi, but it's tricky.
A low rpm engine can be fine, down to 130. A race-engine can be made to work at 150. It's everything in between that wants more, especially a small-displacement streeter.
For a streeter;
160 would be excellent. 155 almost, 150 pretty good,145 good,135 sorta normal in the smoggers,130 starting to suck, 125 definitely sucks,120 sux to be you if you got it, 115 just flat really sux,110 kill me now,105 biggest pos ever, yank it or blow it up, so you have to yank it.
100 or less?
:rofl:Something is wrong,lol
So do the test and see what you got.:popcorn:
wow i guess i read that wrong, so your saying a 1971 block 318 stock compression is more in the 7's than the advertised 8:6:1? i thought only 1980s 360 where that low. yeah ill do a compression test see what i get.