USC All Metal questions

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Litz

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Can USC all metal be applied over POR-15? Also will it bond to the factory lead work? I have a crack to repair in the cowl area. 65 Valiant Signet. Thanks in advance!
 
I don't see why it couldn't be applied over POR15, but typically it's applied over bare metal that has a fairly rough (40 grit) finish for good adhesion. It can be applied over the factory lead work, although again usually I would have a 40 grit finish to go over with the All-metal. With lead I'd probably hit it with a body file instead though, as that isn't something you want to sand/breathe. I have used it over lead, typically what I do is knock the lead down a little bit with a body file and then go over it with All-Metal or the Evercoat version, Metal-2-Metal. That way the lead is low enough that I won't be sanding into it later.

If you have a crack though you'll need to address the crack before you do anything. All-Metal and Metal-2-Metal are just body fillers that are based on aluminum powder, they're not structural in any way, shape or form. Neither is lead. If you have a crack in the cowl structure that will have to be welded up before any of the fillers are applied. If the crack is in the lead, it will have to be removed.
 
I don't see why it couldn't be applied over POR15, but typically it's applied over bare metal that has a fairly rough (40 grit) finish for good adhesion. It can be applied over the factory lead work, although again usually I would have a 40 grit finish to go over with the All-metal. With lead I'd probably hit it with a body file instead though, as that isn't something you want to sand/breathe. I have used it over lead, typically what I do is knock the lead down a little bit with a body file and then go over it with All-Metal or the Evercoat version, Metal-2-Metal. That way the lead is low enough that I won't be sanding into it later.

If you have a crack though you'll need to address the crack before you do anything. All-Metal and Metal-2-Metal are just body fillers that are based on aluminum powder, they're not structural in any way, shape or form. Neither is lead. If you have a crack in the cowl structure that will have to be welded up before any of the fillers are applied. If the crack is in the lead, it will have to be removed.
Thanks for the info!
 
I would be careful here... That USC quickens quick . .let it dry overnight.. ,it takes time for rhe MEQT ( the clear stuff ,in the tube) to catalyze. Just personally, experience.
 
I would be careful here... That USC quickens quick . .let it dry overnight.. ,it takes time for rhe MEQT ( the clear stuff ,in the tube) to catalyze. Just personally, experience.

Yeah mixing either of the aluminum based fillers is tougher than typical Bondo because there’s no color change. So it can be a bit harder to get the right amount of hardener and a good mix. Too much and it sets up super fast, too little and it takes forever. And either way it looks the same when you’re mixing it. Takes some practice, especially if your air temperatures are very cold or very hot.
 
I found that 12 drops of hardner to a golf ball size blob of metal2metal is a good ratio. I let it cure for a couple hours before sanding.
 
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