Pics of your Roll cage main hoop mounting

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70Roadkill

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hey guys I’m getting close to start mounting up the roll cage, I need to finish cleaning up and minor patching of the floor pans. So in the corner there is a lot going on and not a flat surface to weld the 6x6 plate. Would like to see how you montes yours up. I don’t plan on cutting up my floor pan for subframe connectors. I added some under the car to stiffen it. She’s rock sold for sure. By the way I have a jegs 10 point that I’m installing.

Thanks in advance.

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hey guys I’m getting close to start mounting up the roll cage, I need to finish cleaning up and minor patching of the floor pans. So in the corner there is a lot going on and not a flat surface to weld the 6x6 plate. Would like to see how you montes yours up. I don’t plan on cutting up my floor pan for subframe connectors. I added some under the car to stiffen it. She’s rock sold for sure. By the way I have a jegs 10 point that I’m installing.

Thanks in advance.

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What kind of car is it?
 
I did an eight point in my 73 Duster and it was pretty straightforward. The best part is the hoop part was basically Perfect Right Out of the Box. So that helped a lot. A lot of work cutting all those bars correctly and of course all the recuts because you don't want to cut it too short the first time.
 
Tack the plate on the one flat edge, heat plate red hot with torch and hammer form to the floor.
 
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Tack the plate on the one flat edge, heat plate red hot with torch and hammer form to the floor.
I bent mine in a vise until I got the shape I wanted, then welded it to the floor and subframe connectors that protrude thru the floor.
 
How many of you also bent the plate and attached it to the seat area. See pic I highlighted the area I’m talking about.

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I would just butt the plate to that flat vertical edge of that higher 'shelf' area and keep it on the bottom floor level. Keep in mind the tube doesn't have to be welded in the middle of the 6x6 plate.

On my 66, and like a ton of people on this site, I welded the main hoop to an outrigger going from the subframe connector to the rocker.
 
I just remembered kind of what Cope and a couple other people were saying about bending that one plate first. Yes as I recall the one plate went into that back corner but curled up on the side so it's centered on both ends of the hoop. I think I did the bend it in my Vise first deal as I don't have the heat that cope does. Something about welding it into the frame rail which is actually that rocker that goes underneath the door between subframes. Then that inner leg that Kicks Down right next to that underneath the hoop I put a fish plate right over top of my frame connectors which I welded to the floor board in that area for Extra Strength. Absolutely everything I'm telling you I don't know for a fact is the correct way just the way I did it.
 
Don't forget you NEED to mount your driver seat BEFORE you install the hoop. There's height to head and distance behind head rules. Find where you want your seat height and location THEN start your cage...
 
Don't forget you NEED to mount your driver seat BEFORE you install the hoop. There's height to head and distance behind head rules. Find where you want your seat height and location THEN start your cage...
Also that bar going down between your shoulder and elbow alongside of you...
 
I need to finish cleaning up the floors and fix a couple small spots then figure it out. Been 20 years since I put one in. Google is my friend. Getting a few ideas.

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We mounted my main hoop just in front of the rear seat. All custom bent c.m. tubing to follow contour of the in interior panels. Mounts thru the floor & ties into all of the under car tubing & tubular frame connectors. Even though an E Body it does still retain all of the stock floors, frame rails & firewall & is 25.5 certified.

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Don't forget to check your rear window crank to main hoop. My rear cranks just rub the hoop.
 
Look up the specs. in a rule book. The side bar has to be within so many inches of your shoulder. The head hoop has to have a certain amount of clearance around your head. the anchor points of you belts has to be within a certain distance of your shoulders. I also tied it to the frame connector rails, Same kit as yours but with the front down bars.

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Started tacking the halo to the main hoop. Set it in with the 6” plates also tacked in set it all up so main hoop vertical and the halo to a 90 to the main hoop. Set it in and of course it hits the header and the main hoop isn’t vertical. I want to keep the main hoop vertical and I guess slightly set the halo at an angle so doesn’t hit the header where the sun visors mount. Is that way any of you did that did a 10 or 12 point cage? Any pics of yours is appreciated. Off to cut my tack welds and get ready to reposition it. Not sure if the halo is too far forward or not.
 
I ditched the visors and rear view. My rear view now mounts to the cage.

The halo needs to be as far forward as you can get it or your A pillar bars will be far back...

Dont forget you need to weld the top of the bars so A, cut holes in the floor and drop the cage down then cover holes with the plates, B cut holes in the roof or C, get real good at welding with a lot of "stick out"....
Mine is a 10 point, I'm not even sure where you would put more points?

I have rear frame, main hoop, tunnel, A pillar and front frame mounts. (And drivers compartment.)

What are the last 2 points?
 
I just shortened it about 5/8” and with a 1/2” cope overall shortened it about 1 1/8” and it dropped down the rear hoop about 1/8” so I’ll tack it in tomorrow set it back in and see where we stand. I can take the hoop and halo out as one piece. So welding it up will be easy. Now about them front and back bars well see. Since the windshield is out and once I set the rear bars in it will come out for easier access to welding. Gonna tig it all up.
 
If your rear crank hits the main bar, I put on some c body vent handles and clears alot better. Plus they where very close to the same design as my 67 factory ones. If you need a closer picture let me know.

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I may need use shorter vent window cranks on the pass side, slipping the a pillar bar is a challenge when trying to open the glove box door and roll the window up and down. Have about 1/16" clearance to both. I need to rip the dash out and get it all cleaned up and painted once I finish test fitting the a pillar bars. Hope to finish drivers side tonight. Then I can start welding up the cage. Still have rear bars to fit and then the cross bars and such. Once I get the a pillar bars in the rest should go quick. I'll have to post pics when I start welding it up.
 
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