FiTech EFI system

I have a 1971 360/automatic with a GoEFI 4 600hp, non-power adder. I went with the Tanks Inc fuel injection tank and Walbro in tank pump (255lph), 3/8 -6AN for supply and full return to tank. I have the Fitech white/ignition wire connected to the electric choke wire in the original harness. It runs well (much better than 750 Holley carburetor!) with the stock/original electronic ignition – with an Accel coil. I now want to make the switch for the Fitech to control the timing. I have a MSD 2-wire (part 8534 with mechanical advance locked out), MSD adjustable rotor, and MSD 8.5 plug wires. Now for the questions I have after reading the 60 previous pages of this post… All stem from the fact that replacing the dizzy requires ‘something’ to be the brains. It could be a 6AL, a ready-to-run, or in this case the Fietch, but I haven’t found clear instructions for the stock-to-Fitech conversion.

1) The Fitech has the leads and connector to go into the new MSD dizzy – what do I do with the original dizzy wires that came from the ECU (orange box)?

2) What do I do with the ballast wires (start/brown and run/blue)? Some say splice these wires together to go to the coil+, but other say don’t or you will fry the stock coil. Since I have the Accel coil will a splice cause the coil to burnup? I need 12v power to the coil+ at least during startup. Also these wires go to and from the bulkhead – implications of splicing?

3) What do I do with the voltage regulator. It has one wire from the alternator and the other to the blue/run wire of the ballast.

4) What do I do with the ECU? Part of the answer will come from #1 above, but the ECU also has a wire to the coil-, a wire from the alternator, and a wire to the blue/run side of the ballast.

I prefer to retain the existing wiring harness (as much as possible) and splice/jump wires as opposed to removing completely.

I appreciate your time…