I've got a pair of the same-side 2800lbs SS springs on both my '68 3700lbs A-Body and '70 3750lbs E-Body. The first is 510hp stroked Magnum w 4sp OD auto & 3700 stall lock-up converter & 3.91's w 28" tall Nitto 275/60-15 drag radials. That car also has a 1" lowering block and correctly adjusted slapper bars. The '70 is a 700+hp RB w Passon 5 speed and 3.73's with 325/50-15 Nitto drag radials. Both these cars ride better, corner better and launch harder than any other rear suspension set-up I have tried in over 35 years. Both cars sit level, as they are driven hard on the open road.
I am about to replace out the passenger side rear spring with a matching, fresh spring on the '70 because the front segment bent due to spring wrap without a traction device. The car began to sit noticeably lower on the passenger side due to the greater forces at work when the car plants on launch. The very reason the springs were designed to have an extra half leaf on that side.
This time I will be installing a set of properly adjusted slapper bars on that car too. This prevented the bending of the front segment on my '68 for several years now, dramatically improved the traction and only slightly stiffened the ride quality. I paint them satin black to make them less visible, so I don't hear the mis-information about how they don't work on Mopars. Oddly, the Hellcat owner I pulled 3 car lengths on out of the hole at Spring Fling's Track day never mentioned that they don't work on Mopars.
These lighter 2800lbs springs were wrapping on my '68 until I installed slapper bars on it too. I put them on in the first week of driving the car, and will never take them off. They work so well once properly adjusted its hard to believe. I tried a pinion snubber, but the ride was so harsh, the car was unusable on anything but a smooth track. The same thing with Caltracs. Those are nothing short of brutal on the street, but work awesome on a smooth track.
Dr. Diff is the man who originally suggested I try the 2800lbs, same-side SS springs on these heavy cars, or I never would have discovered what I found to be the best rear suspension set-up I ever experienced.
I do use high-quality, correct length shocks on both cars and lube all the pivot points with synthetic disc brake grease to dramatically reduce sticktion in the suspension, (rubber bushings on springs and shocks).
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JBC426,I've got a pair of the same-side 2800lbs SS springs on both my '68 3700lbs A-Body and '70 3750lbs E-Body. The first is 510hp stroked Magnum w 4sp OD auto & 3700 stall lock-up converter & 3.91's w 28" tall Nitto 275/60-15 drag radials. That car also has a 1" lowering block and correctly adjusted slapper bars. The '70 is a 700+hp RB w Passon 5 speed and 3.73's with 325/50-15 Nitto drag radials. Both these cars ride better, corner better and launch harder than any other rear suspension set-up I have tried in over 35 years. Both cars sit level, as they are driven hard on the open road.
I am about to replace out the passenger side rear spring with a matching, fresh spring on the '70 because the front segment bent due to spring wrap without a traction device. The car began to sit noticeably lower on the passenger side due to the greater forces at work when the car plants on launch. The very reason the springs were designed to have an extra half leaf on that side.
This time I will be installing a set of properly adjusted slapper bars on that car too. This prevented the bending of the front segment on my '68 for several years now, dramatically improved the traction and only slightly stiffened the ride quality. I paint them satin black to make them less visible, so I don't hear the mis-information about how they don't work on Mopars. Oddly, the Hellcat owner I pulled 3 car lengths on out of the hole at Spring Fling's Track day never mentioned that they don't work on Mopars.
These lighter 2800lbs springs were wrapping on my '68 until I installed slapper bars on it too. I put them on in the first week of driving the car, and will never take them off. They work so well once properly adjusted its hard to believe. I tried a pinion snubber, but the ride was so harsh, the car was unusable on anything but a smooth track. The same thing with Caltracs. Those are nothing short of brutal on the street, but work awesome on a smooth track.
Dr. Diff is the man who originally suggested I try the 2800lbs, same-side SS springs on these heavy cars, or I never would have discovered what I found to be the best rear suspension set-up I ever experienced.
I do use high-quality, correct length shocks on both cars and lube all the pivot points with synthetic disc brake grease to dramatically reduce sticktion in the suspension, (rubber bushings on springs and shocks).
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