ANY AUTOCROSS RACERS

69wacuda said
Right now A is less than B which goes against the factory spec sheet you posted. I could start there. Also my car is riding really rough. I think it's bottoming out due to the fact that I only have about 3/4"-1/2" of upward LCA travel and 4" of downward travel. From what I've read about many others setups mine shouldn't ride that rough with Hotchkis leafs and 1.03 PST TB. Also, this is set with the TB adjuster all the way backed out. I have only one way of adjustment. What if I pulled the TB out, keyed the LCA up 45 degrees, and used the TB adjuster to bring the car up to ride height. This should make A greater than B, which allows for more clearance between the LCA bumpstop and the frame, while keeping the ride height the same?

Don’t worry about what the factory spec says, that’s out the window with radials and a modern alignment. You just have to worry about having enough travel.

You’re bottoming out, that’s not enough clearance. Even with my 1.12” torsion bars I need almost a full 1” of upward LCA travel. With 1.03’s you’ll need more than that.

The other thing is, I wouldn’t be surprised if your adjusting bolts are being fully unloaded and losing contact with the adjuster lever at full extension. You still have the factory upper bumpstop in there. You probably need to install a taller upper bumpstop to keep the adjusting bolt from dropping off the adjusting lever at full extension. When you lower the car that much, you have to recenter the range of travel around the new ride height.

Reclocking the torsion bars won’t change what you’re talking about. If the adjuster is all the way out, just screw it in and raise the ride height. You may be able to reclock the bars, but that won’t change the range of travel. Just the position of the adjuster. The only way to add travel to the suspension on compression is to raise the car. The ratio is like 2:1 also. If you add a 1/2” of clearance at the LCA bumpstop, you’ll raise the car almost 1”.