220V to 110V converter

67Dart273 said
I don't need anybody to look at anything, and you are incorrect, please re-read this thread

1....The OP was looking for a way, I only wrote how I do it. The only thing that is not "code" is the TEMPORARY grounding on the rarely used extension cord

2....There ARE more than one ground on a house system. The house main box ground is the "start" that is the line neutral and the box case ground and the ground stake are all tied together there

When you wire up a sub panel in another building THAT is grounded at that box so IT has a separate ground. That's at least TWO right there

3....If you have a tower IT is grounded by means of multiple ground stakes, and if it has power to it THAT is tied to the tower and therefore tied to the main system ground. That's THREE

4...Plumbing......Gas pipe and plumbing is often bonded to the house system ground and "yes" the gas meter and house water supply both have "dielectric" connectors, but this doesn't mean that an outside faucet might be tied to something else. "Possibly FOUR"

5...Lightning protection.....Some houses have various types of lighting (rod) protection, and THAT is grounded by means of multiple stakes as well as bonded/ tied to the house main ground

SO THAT'S at least FIVE...........separate.......grounds depending on the situation.

Another? ANY metal equipment, such as a welder, or in my case, the outdoor two post hoist. The electrical ground is tied to the metallic box and conduit on the hoist. So the entire hoist is connected to system (green) ground.......traced directly back to the main box.

THE HOIST sits on the GROUND on a metal frame. Isn't that "ground?" I'd think so.

I see where you are coming from, but a couple things should be clarified:

The "ground," or equipment grounding conductor, AKA green wire, AKA bare copper wire, is meant to provide a low impedance path back to the transformer in order to clear faults on electrically conductive materials that people may come in contact with. The way it does this is via the neutral tap of the supply transformer, where it will be bonded ONLY at the main panel, as you have pointed out.

Grounding electrodes, AKA ground rods, cold water pipe, etc. are meant only to help keep metal items at ground potential and to dissipate residual fault current into the earth. They are not meant to be the low impedance path needed to open a circuit breaker and eliminate hazardous voltage from metal items that we come in contact with.

The ground at your "sub panel" is tied only to the chassis of the panel at this point because connecting it to the neutral bus would turn every ground wire and bonded piece of equipment/junction box/conduit downstream into a neutral conductor. We call this "objectionable current", and it is dangerous.