T-56 Transmission Install Thread

OK.... I hate to admit this and it is going to be a long read but here it goes....
I drove my car out of my shop back in December to go to the upholstery shop. I came off of my four post rack and out the door which is slightly down hill so that didn't put very much strain on my clutch. This was only the third time that the car had ever been started and the Holley Dominator EFI was still learning so I didn't really give the car any gas to speak of.
I needed to trailer the car to the shop because the frontend still needed an alignment. When I went to back the car up to make room for the trailer, it wouldn't pull itself in reverse. It also wouldn't pull itself forward after that. It was trying to pull but it was making a growling/rubbing noise after that like the clutch was slipping.
I never split the trans and engine after I got it from Cleveland P&P so I knew that the clutch should've been right on this 17k mile drivetrain. The only thing that I could figure was that the hydraulic throwout bearing wasn't fully engaging the clutch when I let off of the pedal OR my clutch was bad.
After multple attempts at bleeding and troubleshooting everything that I could think of, I dropped the trans. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary other that the clutch looked like it had been SLIGHTLY hot. I've seen a lot worse! I read online where the factory clutches had gone out at low miles before and that (in some people's opinion) they just weren't that good. I ordered a new Spec clutch, flywheel, TOB, pilot bearing, bellhousing and master cylinder. I figured I might as well make it bulletproof while I'm spending money. lol
After installing everything, I had the same results. The only thing that I hadn't changed was the braided line and plastic line that comes from the master to the TOB. I called on a couple of guys from the forum that are using that same drivetrain from Cleaveland that I am just to compare lines and make sure that they are hooked up correctly because I was desperate to find ANYTHING that could be my problem at this point.
NOW HERE'S WHAT YOU WANT TO READ!
I had bumped the starter early on in this process without the hydraulic line hooked up so that I could make sure that the clutch had clamping force. The car lunged forward and I let off quickly. This satisfied me that I had a TOB problem. AFTER messing with this thing forever I finally got irritated and tried to start it in gear again. IT STARTED IN GEAR without the TOB hooked to the master and made the same noise that it did back in December. Out of desperation, I raised the car up (on my four post) and had a buddy look under it to see if the yoke or the conversion driveshaft was turning (while I started it) so that I could eliminate the transmission and driveshaft. I know, I'm dangerous! They were both turning. I DON'T HAVE A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM.
I dropped my Sure grip out of my 8 3/4 housing and realized that my axles were going through the first set of splines in the carrier and just barely catching the second set of splines in the spider gears. This allowed the car to move in the beginning but once the splines that were barely catching wore off, the axles were turning against the spiders and creating the illusion that my clutch was slipping and making the rubbing/grinding noise that I was hearing.
I put Wilwood disc brakes on my car and the spacers brought my axles out just enough to cause this whole problem. If you have the 69' spider gears that Cass "Doctor Diff" sells, you won't have this problem as they are splined the whole was across. The earlier gears are split right in the middle and this is the issue if you back off your axles very much at all.
Riddler.... from reading your posts, I'm not sure if this could be the same issue that you are having but look into it.
I feel like a Dumb *** and you old school Mopar guys probably know all about this issue but I just experienced it for the first time and if I can pass this along and help someone else out.... that's what hot rodding is all about!!