Tired of DIY!

KnuckleDuster said
Update:
Went a 1/2 turn more on the lifter preload and it runs much better.
Still louder than it was, but I was running .015 shims on the rockers shafts before. A few got bent, and waiting on replacements, might be contributing to the racket. I listened with a stethescope, nothing knocking or tapping, just like a really loud sewing machine.Same on both sides.

Put new FR5 plugs in and got all the old gas out. Gonna check new plugs this morning.

Got leaks on both header gaskets, guess Remflex are a one time seal deal.

The Proform 750 street carb is definitely whistling at the throttle shaft, but the idle is holding pretty steady, regardless.
I also have a Holley 750 vacuum secondary with the same problem. Would like to fix both at the same time.
Throttle shaft ribbons are what I need? Or some other bushing?
Any chance it's the same part for both carbs?
I am still doing coffee and breakfast, will look and get more info...

Took the car for a 40 mile round trip to a hot rod night at a burger place. Other than noises, it was doing pretty good, until I lost power boost to the brakes just as I got there.
Figured the fuse died on my electric pump, but it was running. Think the check valve may have failed, but hard to hear with everything going on. Will check with my Mityvac...just praying its not the booster diaphragm.
Fluid was full, but different color in the smaller ( rear brakes) pot. I run DOT 5, could burnouts at the track create enough heat to change the color?

If you are running shims now that means your geometry was wrong and you made it worse. You can NOT just move the shaft up and no I don't care that it's only .015.

If you use your imagination picture a line through the centerline of the valve going up to a length of 1 FOOT above the tip of the valve. Now (for the ease of picturing what we are discussing) imagine your rockers are mounted with junk studs. Run an imaginary line up from the rocker stud centerline up 1 FOOT from the top of the rocker.

Now, where do the two lines intersect? Most likely, no more that 4-5 inches from the top of the valve.

That means when you shim the start UP, without moving the shaft AWAY from the valve you are ******* up the geometry WAY worse that it even was when you started.

I apologize for the F bomb but dammit, you have to stop and think about what you are doing. Too many Chrysler guys just don't get rocker geometry and even more don't care. If Dave Hughes gave a **** he wouldn't sell junk shims like that. Not that you got them from him but I know he sells them and he and I have had several heated discussions when he tells guys his rockers fix geometry (which they don't) and they are close enough to to shim with a flat shim (they ain't).

So unless you want to keep screwing **** up, STOP STOP STOP and fix the dam geometry. I know, for a FACT you stuff is wrong and wrong is WRONG WRONG WRONG.

Call Mike at B3 racing engines and let him help you.he makes a kit that is economical and works like jack the bear. Stop and call him and fix this NOW.

BTW, I get nothing from Mike, ask nothing from Mike and expect nothing from Mike. But when another engine builder makes a product so damn good and so economical I send anyone his way I can for the sake or YOUR engine.

The guy is smart and a damn good guy. He will help you.

Now STOP and fix your geometry.