Advice on stroker build with cracked cylinder

moparodbuster said

TBH, I've never heard the term DCR before it was mentioned here. All I can say is thanks for the tip. My combo is for the most part a fingers crossed, best guess. That's why I'm putting it out here for advice. Tuning is not something I want to be sweating after my build so yes, a high or even borderline high DCR is something I'd like to stay away from ideally. It's going to be 90% trailored, 10% street driven so I don't want to fall down with either. I've had the reverse manual 904 built so long ago that I've forgotten the stall but remember it was somewhere between 3000-3800 so I'm not sure if this will help/hurt my proposed combo... especially the DCR.

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OK, then I'd personally stick where you are and not push CR up any more; that was the whole point in having this discussion. Higher RPM's typically keep you away from the worst detonation probabilities, and if you get a decent quench, and with the AL heads, then you'll be in a good spot IMHO. You still need to not be sloppy/lazy with tuning and ignition timing.

FWIW, we have an 8.0-8.1 DCR 340 here with quench and AL heads: "Effective DCR" is at 7.8-7.9, since we average around 1500' elevation. 15 degrees initial and mid 30's total ignition timing. Carb is even leaned out at light loading for better cruise fuel economy. It has not knocked a peep ever. Niiiice torquey engine, for street driving and roaring around on the local mountain roads.