904 Transmission Stopped Going Into Gear

I have more sub-assemblies apart.

Here are the pictures and my thoughts on re-use vs. replace for each. Any advice is appreciated.


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Oil pump looks good. Will clean and reassemble.


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Direct clutch disks and steels. Look gently worn. I'll replace the frictions and re-use the steels.


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Forward clutch frictions and steels show heavy wear, heat discoloration, and scarring. Looks like this is where everything went bad for the trans. I will replace everything here except maybe the forward apply pressure plate and direct forward pressure plate if they are still flat.


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Bushing in forward drum shows some wear and scratches, should I replace it? I should probably just replace all bushings, right?

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Forward clutch piston looks good but seal was so stiff it was very difficult to remove the piston and the rubber started to come apart when I flexed it by hand.


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Do I need to remove the shaft from the drum? How is that done? That big brown washer is flopping around. Is that the "front clutch fiber washer"?

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Forward drum with clutch assembly removed. Do I remove that snap ring to completely disassemble? Do I even need to do that?

Thanks everyone.

Do not use burned steels even though they are flat, as heat creates hard spots that won't friction evenly when they apply.

Absolutely replace that bushing on the drum, as that centers the drum on the stator for the sealing rings to center on the hub.

You definitely found hard rubber that causes "Morning Sickness" and no move symptoms.

The input shaft can stay on the drum, just clean all the nooks and cranny's.

That brown washer is exactly what you think it is and can be reused of it looks solid.
They are a little brittle, so don't tweak on it too much checking it.

From what I see you are doing fine.

OH, and if the rest of the pump looks that good there shouldn't be a problem reusing it.
Just put a new seal and bushing in it and don't forget to RED lockite BOTH the seal and bushing in place, and stake the bushing into the pump body.

Note that when you put the bushing in that you position the bushing seam 90 degrees away from the staking indents so as not to cause the bushing seam to open or disfigure.
I use a 1/8 or so drill bit and a ball peen hammer to stake the seal in.

This is the idea on the staking of the bushing, and after doing this I always fit it on the converter and turn it a bit to smooth of any high spots in the bushing.

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