MAD ELECTRICAL?

I am not worried about doing the work, more worried that it won't fix the problem of the charging system fluctuating and bouncing the Volt meter around. I got a new battery and that helped a lot, the charging system seems to work fine going down the road with a steady 14 volts, at idle it starts fluctuating. Thanks for your response
The maximum alternator output depends on rpm. The regulator will try to hold the output voltage at 14 Volts but if the power demand exceeds the maximum power it can produce at that rpm, the output voltage will drop. If the voltage drops to 12.8, its likely the battery is supplying a portion of the power.

Low rpm power output can be improved in various ways if needed. Beware that sometimes a higher output alternator has worse low rpm performance.

Here's an example showing the dependency of power output on rpm. Its a test report that came with a reman'd late squareback chrysler alternator.
A few things to be aware of:
1. RPM is alternator rpm, not crank rpm.
2. Output current in a test can be changed by altering the voltage. ( In this test the voltage was regulated to 13.2 Volts.)
3.a. Rating is usually given near maximum but I've not seen an industry standard.
3b. Chrysler's FSM tests for output are usually done around 1250 engine rpm with voltage controlled by a carbon pile. When you see that in the book, its not the same as the 'rating'.
output%20chart.jpg