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CowBoyRoy81

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Ok. Under the dash, right at drivers side by radio, there's a little stainless cylinder. About 1.5 inch long. Definitely the highlighted component in the schematic picture attached. What is it? I understand is in line with the interior lights. It stays physically hot when key off, have a ground/short issue causing no turn lights....not sure if they're related.

For those who enjoy a puzzle (know I haven't given up yet): All other exterior lights work including flashers, brake, trail and headlights. Both flasher units work because they both power the flashers. Power is getting to turn signal flasher unit and turn signal switch. I will ohm turn signal switch tonight, but don't think that's the issue. All bulbs ohm'd out along with grounds cleaned and checked from engine/battery, battery/radiator support, rear harness/exposed steel in trunk....

Any help appreciated.

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Picture of the "Little stainless cylinder"? What you have circled seems to be a connector or splitter of some sort as it seems to be on power lines for Map light, Glovebox light, and Ignition light.
 
Picture of the "Little stainless cylinder"? What you have circled seems to be a connector or splitter of some sort as it seems to be on power lines for Map light, Glovebox light, and Ignition light.
whatever that connection circled is gets power only when door switch is activated. Usually a cylinder is some sort of flasher/thermal switch/buzzer/breaker...etc. An active device.
 
Timer for the ignition switch light. Keeps the light on for a predetermined amount of time so you can see where to put the key at night. My 69 Fury has one, but it doesn't pass power at all, so I wired the key light into the dash lights.
 
Timer for the ignition switch light. Keeps the light on for a predetermined amount of time so you can see where to put the key at night. My 69 Fury has one, but it doesn't pass power at all, so I wired the key light into the dash lights.

Thank you for the knowledge! Now I know that my fault extends past the turn signal system!
 
This part was bad on my '73 Swinger. If you look for OE or NOS, they want $40 and more on eBay. I couldn't justify the money for the part but wanted to make it work correctly. Through my research, I found that this particular component was used on Chrysler product into the early 90's even in Jeeps and Vipers. I finally found one for $12 from Auto Zone. I ordered it and had it the next day. System works great now! The part is Duralast 19390. I am sure other stores can cross reference to their brand but I can verify this one is right and works well.
 
This part was bad on my '73 Swinger. If you look for OE or NOS, they want $40 and more on eBay. I couldn't justify the money for the part but wanted to make it work correctly. Through my research, I found that this particular component was used on Chrysler product into the early 90's even in Jeeps and Vipers. I finally found one for $12 from Auto Zone. I ordered it and had it the next day. System works great now! The part is Duralast 19390. I am sure other stores can cross reference to their brand but I can verify this one is right and works well.

Hey thanks! I got all exterior lights working 100% today so big obstacle complete. I'll get that part and replace and hopefully get all the interior electronics working properly. End goal is this to be a "retro daily driver". Was my daily driver in young 20's until a car cut me off and I T-boned them. Had already committed to the Army so it sat at my parents for 10 years. I have rebuilt almost everything and am breaking in the 200 mile engine/tranny. Mine's the primered, my dad's is the painted one....which his dad bought new.

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That’s amazing. I feel like the stories that go with some cars are worth more than the cars themselves. I’m in the same place with mine just making everything work again. I bought it in November last year from a 95 year old woman who bought it new in June of ‘73. I even got the original 45 year old title with it.
 
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