SLOWING down the rust monster..........

burrpenick said

This Corroseal sounds good, but, there are MANY other products out that that at least claim similar results. Anyone have experience w/others? This stuff is about $30 a quarts- which is all I want.

Just got a tip that the bubbling area in front of the rear wheel on the rocker is actually not the rocker itself, but the body panel that is tacked over it. If thats the case, then sealing the rocker on the inside is probably not necessary, but cutting that out and somehow affixing a new patch could be difficult to keep the back sealed since its really boxed in. Anyone have experience with the bonded patches? It seems that most experts recommend welding in an exterior patch vs bonding; can anyone comment on how difficult it is to cut out that a small rusty section in front of the rear wheel at the rocker seam?

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You would use a cut off wheel to cut the 1/4 panel over lapping the rocker. But when you do, the rocker will probably need a patch as well. Rust repair
usually opens a can of worms. Often times the rust extends beyond what is visible on the surface of the panel you are patching. You'll repair the area
and a few years later the bubbles will return. Welding is probably the best way to do a patch panel. If one is doing a 1/4 panel patch or replacement
panel in the wheel house area, panel adhesive is a good alternative. No overhead welding. Use panel adhesive on both panels and use a lot of clamps.
If one is replacing a 1/4 panel, welding is needed in door jamb area and rear body panel. The rest can be done with panel adhesive or welding, personal
preference. Most modern cars use panel adhesive extensively.