70 up charging system upgrade question

Engine is a 273 adjustable valve train. I'm fairly confident this is not an engine timing issue. Although one of the pieces I replaced throughout this debacle was the distributor reluctor pickup. One wire had some missing insulation. Replaced with new one, gapped at 0.008". Made no difference.
Weird how the coil +ve was only 10.34 V but fired up. PROPERLY. I could see voltage meter fluctuating, but it fired up so quick I didnt see if it went any higher.
I gave the Black ACC wire from ing switch a coat of liquid tape as insulation is cracking. I also removed all female terminals from ign switch connector. I have a better style switch connector that will work better. Also gave me another chance to really clean female terminals.
I'll try to start again Monday, gives lots of time for liquid tape to dry.
I know have fusebox and headlight switch dangling lol. I know that the car deserves a new underdash harness and that had.moved to top of list. But something like that has to be planned out and budgeted for lol
Thanks again!

Mattax said

That seems about correct. It should run with lower voltage. It should start with battery voltage.
Remember, once its running, the alternator will be providing system power closer to 14 Volts. The ballast resistor will bring it down from that 14 for the coil positive. How much lower will vary with current flow and temperature. You're in the ballpark.

Charge the battery, get it running. System voltage should be around 14. Maybe a little less at idle and a little more at fast idle.
Then check initial timing, because right now that's seems like a possible reason it didn't want to start easily.

This is a hydraulic lifter engine - stock 318 ?

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