Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?

@toolmanmike He posted a picture of the solenoid on the previous. Maybe you can take a look since you know more about how they work with recharging. Is that connector between the batteries purposely restrictive?

The rest of the wiring looks very robust. As long as the metal connecting terminals are equal to wiring and in good shape, its probably plenty good. There's no need for a 4 gage wire if a 10 gage wire causes no resistance at maximum current. There's a point of dimishing returns. heavy cables are less flexible and heavy. That's the balance that needs to be found.

FLynes said

But having the correct Voltage Regulator matched to the alternator does play into whether you fry your electrical system, right? At least, this is what I've read, and this is where I get a bit confused, because the alternator is supposed to put out consistent voltage based on its RPM, so why would there be different Voltage Regulators? Do they also play a role in regulating amperage?

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Alternators are not self regulating. If power is provided to the alternator's spinning windings (rotor) without a regulator, voltage will go up with rpm. Current flowing out is zero until something is attached. If we attach a basic ignition, 1 or 2 amps will flow out. If we also connect the alternator's field, another two amps, headlights 10 more.

Batteries are a chemical reaction, so they can draw a lot if the alot of the electrons are on the opposite position, and draw little when they've all move back to the plates.

The dilema is how to monitor the health of the batteries. A voltmeter on the vehicle system doesn't reflect the health of any of the batteries. To know the condition of the battery, you can monitor its charge rate, or the battery alone can be given a known load and the amps or voltage checked. Preferably both, but either will give a reasonably good idea of condition.