Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?

Sorry but MOST of this is not true. A "battery isolator" is nothing more than a pair of diodes. They do not magically figure out which batteries "only need charged." IN FACT back in my parts days there were a couple of VERY DANGEROUS failures because of isolators. The diode supplying the main battery runs hotter because that battery sees more draw and use. So that diode tends to fail, and it sets up the following condition:

If the main diode fails, the main battery starts to drop and that is where the regulator sensing is connected. So the regulator ramps up charging voltage to a higher and higher level, trying to bring up the main battery. Since there is no longer a closed loop so to speak, that can get fairly high. Meanwhile, the poor secondary battery is over there bubbling furiously with overcharge

In my opinion you are WAY safer and better off with a constant duty solenoid. It ties the batteries together and tries to equalize their voltage, and can also be used as a "jumper" if you leave the lights on eg and run the main down. It can fail, but will leave the alternator properly connected to the main

There is no doubt that a bad battery such as one with a low/ dead cell can screw things up

That isolator is a solenoid....its official name is "Battery Isolator Solenoid". The only thing I don't know is what amp rating my isolator solenoid is. I think it's 90A but I wouldn't bet a nut on it. And you are correct, the solenoid is, for lack of a better word, "dumb". With 12V switched power, the solenoid allows the alternator to charge the batteries, but there is no way to smartly charge each individual Coach/House battery, without installing separate "smart" chargers, and I just don't have the room for it, nor do I think it's really necessary. Truth be told, running a 10ga. wire 18ft to the Coach/House battery compartment isn't very efficient....IIRC, I should probably have at least a 1/0 wire for the dual battery setup, to be effective, but Monaco went with the 10ga. most likely because of cost and because the original setup only had one Coach/House battery.....my original battery housing was shot, so I went to the original manufacturer and they only have a dual battery housing now. I think the last time I priced wire, it came out to +/- $150.