727 auto to LA small block issues

This is off topic as far as a-bodies are concerned? I own a 1982 d-150 rear wheel drive with an automatic 727 nonlock up tranny. The truck had a wore out 360 . I had a 1985 318 block rebuilt and used the stock flex plate that came with the 318 . I went to a local transmission/parts supply shop and bought a non lock up 318 torque converter for a 727. At first there was an issue with the torque converter not rotating after tyranny and engine was bolted up? Found out in the center of the crankshaft flange there was a pilot bushing sticking out about 5/16 to 3/8 and causing resistance against the converter. So I pull engine back out and got rid of the bushing. Bolted engine back up now the converter rotates but have to put a little pressure behind it to rotate it and there's a 5/16 to 3/8 gap between the flex plate at the bolt hole and the torque converter bolt hole blocks? Theres about a 2" to 2-1/2" gap between the edge of the bellhousing back to the teeth of the converter ? Should there be more? Also the guy at the transmission supply place says I might have a newer stock flex plate or newer non lock up converter or vise versa? Even though I clearly stated 1982 automatic 727 nonlock up for D-150 truck with a 318 ? Could the snout on the front of the converter be too long and is there a difference in stock flex plates between 70's and 80's small blocks with automatics? Any help would be appreciated

I would imagine the trans needs to be pulled again and the pump replaced. 3/8 of an inch should have wrecked more than just the pump.

The hub of the converter could be bottoming in the back of the crankshaft, had that happen to me once. How about the 360 converter, does that fit ? Can always take the engine balance weights off

The transmission is fully rebuilt and modified with Kevlar bands and and a racing shift kit . Had no issues when the 360 with new 360 torque converter was in it and rotates freely and ran great.

That's an idea ! But already took that converter back for a core charge. The new 360 torque converter rotated freely and had no issues when it was behind the 360 engine

I just put my rebuilt 727 in this evening. With the converter fully installed and bottomed out, it was about 1/4" from the flex plate to the converter blocks for the bolts once the bellhousing was bolted up. Simply pull the converter forward to the flex plate and bolt it up. There is supposed to be that much axial play for the converter. You may have damaged the pump by bottoming it out on the bushing the first time, but maybe not.

I used a 3/8" box wrench bolted to one of the 1/4" inspection cover holes to hold the converter back against the pump as I maneuvered the trans into position. This keeps it from sliding out of engagement with the pump and not going back in the way it should.

I have a thread a couple weeks ago about my converter being bottomed out in the crank recess. Found the flexplate was slightly bent. Got a new one from NAPA and though they didn't measure much different, the converter slid into the the crank and bottomed out nicely on the new flex plate with no gap after pulling it forward.

I haven't ran the new motor or new torque converter at all yet . Luckily I only had the short block bolted to bellhousing and motor mounts. I pulled the engine back out while I have a floor jack holding up the transmission while It's still bolted up. I inspected the torque converter out of the transmission on to the back of the 318 motor and notice that there's a flat metal Ridge that goes around the outside of the torque converter snout in the middle ? It is a couple hairs wider then the inner diameter of the snout hole on the 318 causing resistance? went and got the 360 crank and the snout of the converter engaged just fine into the snout hole of the crank. The 727 was in my truck so I believe it to be 1982 the year of my truck ? Here is The numbers on The tranny: pk4039537 5871 2973 . The motor is a 1985 car motor 482330 that 8 might be a 3 ?