Well that made a difference! Hooked it up as shown in the video, showing zip. I also ran down and got a test light, doesn’t come on at all. Turned on the dome and parking lights to make sure it showed a draw and it did. Man, do I feel better, think I’m good. Was thinking the dash was coming apart this afternoon to trace wires, but instead may get out and put some miles on the old girl.
Thanks guys!
Be VERY careful measuring current. You last photo is correct, BUT read on!!!
If you are attempting to measure an unknown current, DO NOT hook the multimeter up FIRST. This is because if the amp draw is MORE than the 10A circuit in the meter can handle, it will blow the (expensive) fuse in the Fluke, and if you have the probes in the lesser current "hole" it will DARN sure blow that fuse
What to do?? easy:
Obtain a "heavy" wattage lamp for a test lamp. An old stop/ tail socket with an 1157 works great, because you can wire it different ways for less or more current
So when measuring an unknown short do this:
As you did here with the meter put the bulb in series with battery ground.
For heaviest to lightest draw:
HEAVY:
Twist the two stop/tail wires together and use that for one terminal
Use the bulb shell for the other terminal
Somewhat less wattage:
Use the wire for the heavy filament, the stop/ turn one, and use the bulb shell for the second terminal
Less wattage yet:
Use the tail wire and the bulb shell
Lightest
Leave the bulb shell disconnected/ isolated, and use one wire for one terminal and the other wire for the remaining. This puts the two filaments in series.
This little doo-dad is GREAT for shorts. You can wire the bulb in, and if the short is present, it won't burn fuses or burn wiring. All it will do is light the lamp
WHY DO YOU want to use this BEFORE your meter: Because if you have a HEAVY draw, more than the meter can measure (10A in this case) you will not blow the Fluke meter fuse. THESE ARE EXPENSIVE