Lay down Sally...

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I think your Duster is screaming for some Cragars.

So I actually bought a set of cragars, 15x7 and 15x8. I was unsure if I wanted to use them or not. I think if I went with them I’d wants a 15x10 in the rear with a 295/50. Super 70’s style.

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Slow going with the cold winter in Indiana, also fell on ice and broke my ankle so that’s been fun!

Order my new camshaft, went with a Hughes hyd roller 222/226 duration @50 .549/.555 lift with 1.6 rockers 110 LSA. Not a huge jump but better then my current cam which is 213/219 @50 .512/.512 lift with 1.6 112 LSA.

Ordered a new pertonix distributor to get rid of the stock style distributor I’m using. Then also got a Kevko M302 Xtra pan, 1 quart over stock but pretty much stock size and the pick up.

Still on the list is going to QFT 680 carb. Front end rebuild kit. I’m think of upgrading to tubular upper control arms and dynamic strut rods. Then a set of Dr Diff stage 3 brakes for some good stoping power. Also thinking about send off my extra set of EQ mag heads to get built. Porting and big valve.

Rolling along!
 
Got new tires for my front wheels, got them put on finally. Decided to fire the car up since I haven’t for awhile. I need to get the car up to the garage and start working on figuring out what’s wrong with the front end. Both front wheel lean in bad. I’m thinking the lower control arm bushings are gone. Other news the duster is going to be in a music video at the end of the month so
That will be pretty cool! More to come shortly.



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the front wheels on my 68 valiant leaned in at the top. all 4 ball joints had play in them so i replaced them. the wheels squared up nicely, it's surprising what a difference eliminating that bit of play makes.
neil.
 
Agree. I just got finished doing my entire suspension. Leaf springs, torsion bars, all new ball joints and bushings, tie rod ends, rotors and pads. I also rebuily the steering coupler. I can tell more from the coupler than the others!

I'm heading out on a drive now! :D
 
the front wheels on my 68 valiant leaned in at the top. all 4 ball joints had play in them so i replaced them. the wheels squared up nicely, it's surprising what a difference eliminating that bit of play makes.
neil.
I’ll have to check all them out thanks for the info!
Agree. I just got finished doing my entire suspension. Leaf springs, torsion bars, all new ball joints and bushings, tie rod ends, rotors and pads. I also rebuily the steering coupler. I can tell more from the coupler than the others!

I'm heading out on a drive now! :D
I’ve been thinking about doing one of those ujoint style coupler instead of the rag joint
 
I’ll have to check all them out thanks for the info!

I’ve been thinking about doing one of those ujoint style coupler instead of the rag joint

I probably should have. I went with the Detroit Muscle Technologies coupler rebuild kit which was not cheap, but it was good quality. Just doing it made a huge difference from the dry worn out original, lol.
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I probably should have. I went with the Detroit Muscle Technologies coupler rebuild kit which was not cheap, but it was good quality. Just doing it made a huge difference from the dry worn out original, lol.View attachment 1715315851

I bet it did! Honestly that’s not to bad for the rebuilt kit, those couplers are about double. Only issue with the stock style is it’s pretty close to the headers which makes me worry just a bit.
 
Got the car up to the house and did some work. Couldn’t find anything wrong with the front suspension so I greased everything and made sure it was good to go to the alignment shop. Changed out the steering wheel to wood style tuff wheel, always loved wood grain steering wheels. Got all the new tires on, went a little taller in the rear. Changed out the crank bolt to a smaller one. Then washed and detailed her out.

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So this last week was pretty much all over the place. In between Indiana rain showers I got the car to an alignment shop. While they had it in the back, the tech found the drivers upper ball joint was going bad. I just so happened to have a set off new factory style control arms. So they were just gonna swap both sides out. I’d have new upper ball joints and bushing, I figured why not. The next day I got a call, while they were swapping out the control arms they found both the control arm mounts where cracked. My heart sank and got pretty bummed out. I called around and found a shop that’s going to work on fixing it, sounds like it’ll be in good hands. Well yesterday I had to take the car in a music video shoot. Loaded it on a trailer and went. They used the car mainly in sitting shots and a couple of idling shot. So I figured it would be fine. It was really cool to be apart of! Found I have an charging issue at idle. It’s either the alternator or battery. Will do some digging in, but do you guys have any insight on this? Or the control arm mounts? Easy fix, don’t worry? Or bigger issue then I think?

Enjoy the photos.

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Got the car up to the house and did some work. Couldn’t find anything wrong with the front suspension so I greased everything and made sure it was good to go to the alignment shop. Changed out the steering wheel to wood style tuff wheel, always loved wood grain steering wheels. Got all the new tires on, went a little taller in the rear. Changed out the crank bolt to a smaller one. Then washed and detailed her out.

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That crank bolt 3/4 -16 thread ? I have been looking for a longer on for my 440/505, the stock one is 1 1/4" , how long is the one pictured ??
 
Well the video released, not as big of a part as I thought it had but still pretty cool. So check it out!



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That is a whacked video, but it is cool your car is in it.
Did you give up on the other one?
 
Still pretty cool. :thumbsup:

The way they film that probably took 3 hours and 45 minutes!!!
That’s about right!

That is a whacked video, but it is cool your car is in it.
Did you give up on the other one?
Other one is still in the barn. Winter got cold and long, it’s rough working on it out there hopefully soon I’ll get back on it.
 
Well got the money and trans pulled for the body shop to do there thing. I can install the new cam and oil pan on the engine and repaint it. Getting all new inner fenders and they are repainting the engine bay, as well as fixing the control arm mounts. Looking for a few other upgrades to do as well.

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How's your steering gear box? Having the engine out is a good time to rebuild it if it's leaking any.

It’s not leaking but it getting a bit sloppy. Are they easy to rebuild? My local parts store can get a rebuilt unit for around $140.
 
It’s not leaking but it getting a bit sloppy. Are they easy to rebuild? My local parts store can get a rebuilt unit for around $140.

I've never bought a rebuilt unit, but I have heard a LOT of horror stories about buying rebuilt ones from Cardone and others.

If you decide to replace it, go with a Firm Feel. Great feedback on those.

You can adjust a slight bit of slop, but, as one member put it, better to have it two skoses too loose than one skose too tight!! Too tight and it won't easily return.
 
Steer n gear in Ohio, they actually rebuild the whole unit, instead of replacing a few wore parts like the parts store ones.
Around $350
 
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