Starting a BB Duster project

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Got the new core support from US Car Tool installed. I adjusted the core support so a C body radiator would bolt in and then I used a dimple die to put a hole on each side. I like having a formed hole on each side, just looks better to me.
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Just curious about the differences in performance and also cost of the Holley dominator setup for the duster versus the Super sniper in your coronet. I was hoping to use the super sniper in my build due to its easier install. Could you shed some light on the decision making process? Thanks
 
The Dominator is the top of the line multi-port with a huge amount of features while the Super Sniper is an entry level throttle body setup with only a small set of features. The Dominator system is even more advanced that what the Pro Stock guys use, it is designed for very advanced systems with a ton of IO. The Super Sniper should work fine for almost all street driven cars. The next step up from the Super Sniper would be the Terminator throttle body setup. The Terminator system has a lot of IO capability but still has the simplicity of the throttle body.
 
Thanks for clarifying the selection process and criteria. My level of expertise leans towards the Super sniper but I will look at the terminator as well.
 
It just depends what you're trying to do. The Sniper and Super Sniper work fine but they are really limited in terms of IO. If you are just replacing a carb then it doesn't matter but if you want to use the EFI system as a data acquisition system then you won't be happy with the Sniper. The Super Sniper provides limited IO (3 channels of pressure sensing) but the Terminator would provide quite a bit of capability for sensors and control. Things like oil pressure and fuel pressure cannot be monitored with the Snper. The Super Sniper allows you to data log them but you can't see them on the hand held display. The Terminator allows you to data log and monitor them as well as a bunch of other things. If you're happy with a set of gauges under the dash then you might not care about this but typically once a person upgrades to EFI they then start to think about moving other things to digital control. Turning the fans on and off automatically, data logging engine parameters, controlling the automatic trans, drive by wire, etc. Spends some time reading threads on the Holley forum and see what you think.
 
The US Car Tool core support moves the radiator forward about 3/4 of an inch so now I can fit a clutch fan on a stock water pump. I was originally going to use an electric pump since I couldn't get the mechanical setup to fit but now I think I'll go with a belt driven water pump and a mechanical fan.
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The US Car Tool core support moves the radiator forward about 3/4 of an inch so now I can fit a clutch fan on a stock water pump. I was originally going to use an electric pump since I couldn't get the mechanical setup to fit but now I think I'll go with a belt driven water pump and a mechanical fan.
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Cool build, well done. U could always machine the back of the pump housing off for clearance, right up to the thermostat flange. If needed. I did .
P M coming___
 
Got the new master cylinder from Baer installed. These are kind of cool billet master cylinders with a built in prop valve. I also added a line lock and then installed new brake lines from Inline Tube along with a new distribution block.
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On the other side of the frame rail the new brake line hooks up to the flex line that goes to the new Viper calipers. So now everything is installed and connected and ready for fluid.
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I built some new hanger boxes from 0.188 steel and had the chassis shop weld them into the frame. The car came with some hand built hanger boxes that looked like crap. I didn't have the tools to cut them out myself but the chassis guy just dove in and got it done. He cut the old boxes out and then got everything squared up and tacked in place and then started to run the beads. It looks super strong now so I think it is ready to go.
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I built some new hanger boxes from 0.188 steel and had the chassis shop weld them into the frame. The car came with some hand built hanger boxes that looked like crap. I didn't have the tools to cut them out myself but the chassis guy just dove in and got it done. He cut the old boxes out and then got everything squared up and tacked in place and then started to run the beads. It looks super strong now so I think it is ready to go.
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Andy, do you have the part number for that Master Cylinder?

Did you get the 4 bolt to 2 Bolt adapter from Doctor Diff? Looking at doing that brake upgrade next month if preparation for a BB swap next year!
 
Andy, do you have the part number for that Master Cylinder?

Did you get the 4 bolt to 2 Bolt adapter from Doctor Diff? Looking at doing that brake upgrade next month if preparation for a BB swap next year!

I'm using the 15/16 bore master cylinder. Baer offers several different sizes and finishes so best bet is to take a look at their website.

Other way around on the MC adapter. DoctorDiff buys them from me.
 
I'm thinking of changing my direction and going with a DC style K frame and spool mounts. I think it will be a less complicated install and I'll be able to run a stock water pump and alternator setup. Just checking it out for now, I need to reverify all the clearances for everything to see if it will work.
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I like that core support and The rest of the U.S. CArtool stuff but I'm surprised you did those braces and kept the chopped up inner fenders.

Spool mount set up is ok. i made one for my duster. I like the Spool mounts, but I don't like how there isn't really adjustment. if you were making it you could position everything how you want. I think it gets real tight if you wanted to use the road race million pan with the spool mount k frame.
 
So you sold the 470 with the Holley efi? And that fancy wilson intake? That was a sweet setup.
 
So you sold the 470 with the Holley efi? And that fancy wilson intake? That was a sweet setup.

I sold the 470 shortblock. I kept the Trick Flow heads, the Wilson intake and the full EFI setup so I'm going to swap the EFI parts on to the 512 inch engine that was in my Coronet. The 512 goes into the Duster and I'm building a new 426W based stroker for the Coronet. Just a little bit of musical chairs this winter. I had collected a bunch of engines over the last few years from book project as well as a bunch of magazine articles and things were getting cluttered in the shop so it was time to sell some parts and focus my efforts.
 
Here are some more pictures. I'm hanging various parts on the car to see how they fit. I haven't figured out which mixture of parts I'll end up using yet so I'm just test fitting stuff and snapping pictures.
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Andyf, what size headers are you using? I ask cause my TTI 1 3/4 are tight and can’t figure why I see others with bigger headers on a low deck.
 
Andyf, what size headers are you using? I ask cause my TTI 1 3/4 are tight and can’t figure why I see others with bigger headers on a low deck.

I was wodering the same thing. My 2" TTI headers atre a lot closer to everything , but clear . Sure looks like a duster has a bigger engine bay than a 68 fastback , been noticing most other A bodies look to be bigger. ????
 
Andyf, what size headers are you using? I ask cause my TTI 1 3/4 are tight and can’t figure why I see others with bigger headers on a low deck.

The headers in this picture are the Schumacher tri y. They fit okay but I think they would fit better on a RB. It looks like they were designed for an RB. On a B block they are pulled in a little too far to the engine and they hit in a few spots.
 
The Holley Pro Dash arrived. It is big so I'll need to make room for it. Should be cool once I get it working.
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