Amp gauge shunt
I am running HID headlights, electric cooling fan, and a double din receiver and amp. The alternator should of been a 90 amp. I know what you're saying I have plenty of things to fix!
I was going to post some references to externally shunted ammeters, '76 A-bodies had them and you can buy new from places like Aircraft Spruce or Jamestown Supply.
But I think that the main issue you should be focused on is how to get power to all that equipment without overloading any wires or connections. The ammeter is not the whole issue. Its that wire is being asked to handle too many loads.
The stock system had two feeds; Battery and Alternator. The battery feed became the charging feed when the engine was running.
There's just one fusible link needed, and if everything is working right, the only loads it sees are short term.
That Ammeter, fusible link, and connections should only be used for starting and charging.
When electric fans and other equipment is added to the charge wire, its going to carry more than just the recharge current and the ammeter isn't going to reflect the charge/discharge situation.
Having one alternator feed to the inside distribution point, and another to the new distribution box in the engine compartment shortens the path, reduces the connections, and splits the load. If you want an ammeter to show the battery draw and charge rates, an external shunt could be used (like the '76 A-bodies had). Something like this.