Radiator choices 26" or 22"

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72bluNblu said:
I didn't have any, but I have the earlier version of the 26" champion radiator, CC374. They updated it to a CC374B and I believe it got a little taller. My radiator is ~22 5/8" tall from the bottom to the top of the cap. At one point I used some silly putty to check the clearance on my hood and found that I have at least an inch of clearance to the cap. That's with a '71 Dart hood.

People have had clearance issues with the CC374B, although the model of the hood might have some influence on that, they don't all have the same clearance where the radiator sits. On my car anyway I would be able to run a radiator that was over 23" tall to the cap, I probably wouldn't buy anything taller than 23 1/2" though and shorter than that would be better.
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Thanks, guess I’ll throw the hood on and measure just to be safe. I was looking at this radiator. 26" Big Block Mopar Radiator Says 23” but then gotta add the cap. Thinking that might be a bit tight.
 
MomsDuster said:
Thanks, guess I’ll throw the hood on and measure just to be safe. I was looking at this radiator. 26" Big Block Mopar Radiator Says 23” but then gotta add the cap. Thinking that might be a bit tight.
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The cap shouldn't add much, if I remember right other folks have used radiators that end up being 23-1/8", which is probably what that one will be. It would work on my car, but I would definitely measure before I pulled the trigger.
 
72bluNblu said:
The cap shouldn't add much, if I remember right other folks have used radiators that end up being 23-1/8", which is probably what that one will be. It would work on my car, but I would definitely measure before I pulled the trigger.
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Thanks again, I appreciate your input. I will definitely do some measuring! If your ever in the Vacaville area with your car I would love to check it out in person.

Mark
 
MomsDuster said:
Thanks, guess I’ll throw the hood on and measure just to be safe. I was looking at this radiator. 26" Big Block Mopar Radiator Says 23” but then gotta add the cap. Thinking that might be a bit tight.
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That's not a bad radiator. I have one. It's just not a bolt in. If I'd have looked closer at the drawings they use I would have caught it.

Before you drop your rubles on that, spend a minute and look at the radiators that are advertised here on FABO. I can never remember the name but it's Cold Case or some such thing. They are in the advertisers section.
 
yellow rose said:
That's not a bad radiator. I have one. It's just not a bolt in. If I'd have looked closer at the drawings they use I would have caught it.

Before you drop your rubles on that, spend a minute and look at the radiators that are advertised here on FABO. I can never remember the name but it's Cold Case or some such thing. They are in the advertisers section.
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What type of modifications did you have to do?
 
MomsDuster said:
What type of modifications did you have to do?
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The biggest thing that pissed me off was the way the core for the frame. IOW, if you go by their drawing, all the bolt holes are where they should be, relative to each other. But not to where the core is. I didn't want to drill any more holes in my core support to make it fit. And Frank (I think that's the name he gave me) said I should have looked at the drawings closer. We yes, I SHOULD have, but what I measured was correct. Had I had the OE radiator drawing, I would have caught the deal.

So I had to drill some holes in the core support I didn't want and I had to trim their brackets. Come to think of it, I had to move some holes in their brackets too.

Nothing hard. It just pissed me off. I told him I don't want any ne wholes in the core support. He says check the drawing. Fat lotta good that did.

I *THINK* that Cold Case radiators makes a drop in. The guy posts here sometimes. I'm just saying the ECP radiator isn't a drop in for the 26 inch A body part number. If the rest of the cooling system is correct, the ECP will cool your engine.
 
yellow rose said:
The biggest thing that pissed me off was the way the core for the frame. IOW, if you go by their drawing, all the bolt holes are where they should be, relative to each other. But not to where the core is. I didn't want to drill any more holes in my core support to make it fit. And Frank (I think that's the name he gave me) said I should have looked at the drawings closer. We yes, I SHOULD have, but what I measured was correct. Had I had the OE radiator drawing, I would have caught the deal.

So I had to drill some holes in the core support I didn't want and I had to trim their brackets. Come to think of it, I had to move some holes in their brackets too.

Nothing hard. It just pissed me off. I told him I don't want any ne wholes in the core support. He says check the drawing. Fat lotta good that did.

I *THINK* that Cold Case radiators makes a drop in. The guy posts here sometimes. I'm just saying the ECP radiator isn't a drop in for the 26 inch A body part number. If the rest of the cooling system is correct, the ECP will cool your engine.
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Thanks, that’s good to know. I pretty much figured I would have to do some drilling somewhere. I’ll check out Cold Case. I appreciate the info.
 
On mine when I installed the 26” radiator I drilled the 4 mounting holes in the radiator support where they would have been for a 26” factory radiator, then drilled the holes in the mounting flanges for the radiator. The champion’s don’t have the mounting holes drilled in the right spot for the factory mounts (or at least mine didn’t), but drilling the extra holes was no big deal and there was plenty of room on the flange.
 
72bluNblu said:
On mine when I installed the 26” radiator I drilled the 4 mounting holes in the radiator support where they would have been for a 26” factory radiator, then drilled the holes in the mounting flanges for the radiator. The champion’s don’t have the mounting holes drilled in the right spot for the factory mounts (or at least mine didn’t), but drilling the extra holes was no big deal and there was plenty of room on the flange.
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Was that with the ECP radiator? My car was factory 26 inch radiator. Never mind. I reread your post and it says Champion.

That's weird. After I bought my ECP I looked at a local guys car with a Champion. Damn thing dropped right in.
 
yellow rose said:
Was that with the ECP radiator? My car was factory 26 inch radiator. Never mind. I reread your post and it says Champion.

That's weird. After I bought my ECP I looked at a local guys car with a Champion. Damn thing dropped right in.
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Yeah, that was with the earlier Champion CC374. They updated it to a CC374B and they may have changed the mounting holes at that point, not really sure. They weren't that far off, a decent sized washer would hide all of the mounting holes.

Plus who knows, I used a factory 26" radiator to locate the mounting holes in the radiator support, but my car was converted from 22" so it's entirely possible the difference was on me locating the holes.
 
72bluNblu said:
Later cars with AC could have 26" radiators. But without AC they also frequently had 22" radiators, so, it's not just a year thing.

But even with a car that had a 22" radiator standard mounting a 26" radiator is pretty easy. It can be as simple as just drilling 4 holes, although you can go the extra mile and weld the nuts to the core support like the factory did to make installing the radiator a little easier.

My Duster came with a 22" radiator from the factory. I installed a 26" Champion radiator and use a '95-2000 Ford Contour dual speed, dual electric fan set up on it. I left the core support opening alone, it only partially shrouds the outer rows of the core. And the fans have a shroud that covers the entire core, so, air is pulled across all of it when the fans are running anyway. At speed there's no cooling issue. The smaller radiator won't save you a ton of weight (and the aluminum radiator is lighter to start than a factory radiator anyway). And a larger coolant volume is a good thing, not a bad thing. I suppose every little bit of weight counts if you're really serious about racing, but a few degrees of engine temperature can make a really big difference too. If the larger radiator lets you control your engine temps better, it would make a bigger difference than the small change in weight IMO.

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Hi, 72bluNblu
I've got my engine mocked up in my 68 cuda with 408 small block, the car dynoed at 520 hp and 520 torque. I'm in the process of figuring out a radiator, going to be running a mechanical fan with fan clutch. I'm looking at a champion 26" 2 row radiator rated for 650 hp. Is this the same radiator you have? Where radiator mounts to core support, how much radiator is in engine side?

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14858.jpeg
 
Penstarpurist said:
Okay, we are making progress on the duster. Should have it up and driving very soon. Putting in the roll cage now, using the pics J pair posted of his to go by, as well of course as the NHRA guidelines. Thanks for the pics Jpar. Next I am getting ready to buy a radiator for it. I know the guys like Ron Davis, be cool and others make the best. But the budget is in the $200-$300 range. I know a 22" is a drop in fit basically. What does it take to fit the 26" in. 73 duster 400 bb, top hose left, bottom hose right. Also, opinions on dual electric or mechanical fan? I've read the past posts and arguments. But times and opinions change and I want to know what's working best now in my price range. Cause Ron Davis wanted $1400. Which as much as I would love to have it, got to feed the kids too.
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ECP makes a very nice one very affordable.Mopar BIG BLOCK Aluminum Radiator 1967 - 1974 Mopars - 26" - Scratch + Dent SALE | eBay
 
bluefish said:
ECP makes a very nice one very affordable.Mopar BIG BLOCK Aluminum Radiator 1967 - 1974 Mopars - 26" - Scratch + Dent SALE | eBay
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ECP advertises 1" tubes and they have them, others don't. ECP is the real deal. I have one in an A body with a 511 with hard block within 3" of the deck, mechanical fan and pump. Runs 195* most of the time. 206* highest in 90* 80% humidity. Very nice quality radiator that keeps thing cool. My coolant capacity is only 2gallons and this thing cools. You must have a shroud as well for it to work this good. Very happy.
 
There are hundreds of opinions about cooling on this forum and I will add mine . With modern cooling systems of today there is no reason to butcher your car to make a 26" radiator fit . It DOES matter if you have a track car or a track/street car . A track car needs enough cooling to get into staging , make a pass and return , so , weight is a factor . A street/track car is more complicated . You need a good radiator , a good water pump/thermostat and a good fan . Electric fans require upgrading your electrical system as they require 30 amps. each to operate . Electric water pumps require 30amps. as well . any of these may work but they may not . I suggest that you start with the least expensive item first and go from there . High flow water pump and high flow thermostat to start . Add a shroud and 18"mechanical fan . If that doesn't do the trick , then, go with an extra capacity radiator . In my case it's a matter of capacity (not enough). You can also add 50/50 coolant with water wetter too . Many small things together will get it done .
 
Zcuda68 said:
Hi, 72bluNblu
I've got my engine mocked up in my 68 cuda with 408 small block, the car dynoed at 520 hp and 520 torque. I'm in the process of figuring out a radiator, going to be running a mechanical fan with fan clutch. I'm looking at a champion 26" 2 row radiator rated for 650 hp. Is this the same radiator you have? Where radiator mounts to core support, how much radiator is in engine side?

View attachment 1715281546

View attachment 1715281547
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I actually have a Champion 26” 3 row in mine, not a 2 row. From where it mounts on the core support it’s about 3” into the engine compartment to the end of the tanks.

No “butchering” required either, just 4 new mounting holes. On mine I even welded nuts on the back just like the factory. Works great, I use a Ford Contour two speed, dual electric fan set up on it. Never had an issue, and I’ve sat in traffic when it’s 108* out.
 
72bluNblu said:
I actually have a Champion 26” 3 row in mine, not a 2 row. From where it mounts on the core support it’s about 3” into the engine compartment to the end of the tanks.

No “butchering” required either, just 4 new mounting holes. On mine I even welded nuts on the back just like the factory. Works great, I use a Ford Contour two speed, dual electric fan set up on it. Never had an issue, and I’ve sat in traffic when it’s 108* out.
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Thank you, that's the measurement I needed
 
I'm planning on using a 27 inch, 2 row radiator from a Cordoba in my Duster. I had a radiator shop move the outlet on the lower tank so it lined up with the hose on the driver side but other than that it is basically a bolt in. The Cordoba radiator has a nice big shroud so I can use a 19 inch fan blade. I tried a 20 inch fan blade and it was close to hitting the shroud so I decided to stick with a 19 inch fan. There is enough room to use a clutch fan so I don't need an electric water pump or an electric fan.
DSC_3269 (Large).JPG
 
cannucky said:
Your probably not getting a clutch fan in there unless you switch to the old style watwr pump but my 410 runs nice and cool with a champion rad and a stock mechanical fan .
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I hope your wrong. Lol. If not I'll just bolt the fan on
 
I've got a 22" Champion in my duster along with a electric fan and stock water pump keeps the engine nice and cool!!
 
Zcuda68 said:
I hope your wrong. Lol. If not I'll just bolt the fan on
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69fastback the 410 came with the newer longer waterpump with the passenger side inlet , I had to swap pumps {which I had on hand } and fabricate a custom hose to cross over to the passenger side rad outlet in order to fit a clutch fan in , I'd bet a FABO sticker from my collection you will too . The cheap easy answer is no clutch fan
 
cannucky said:
Your probably not getting a clutch fan in there unless you switch to the old style watwr pump but my 410 runs nice and cool with a champion rad and a stock mechanical fan .
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Are you running a shroud or nothing at all, I'm going to run the 18" derale fan, need a shroud for the 26" champion
 
Penstarpurist said:
Okay, we are making progress on the duster. Should have it up and driving very soon. Putting in the roll cage now, using the pics J pair posted of his to go by, as well of course as the NHRA guidelines. Thanks for the pics Jpar. Next I am getting ready to buy a radiator for it. I know the guys like Ron Davis, be cool and others make the best. But the budget is in the $200-$300 range. I know a 22" is a drop in fit basically. What does it take to fit the 26" in. 73 duster 400 bb, top hose left, bottom hose right. Also, opinions on dual electric or mechanical fan? I've read the past posts and arguments. But times and opinions change and I want to know what's working best now in my price range. Cause Ron Davis wanted $1400. Which as much as I would love to have it, got to feed the kids too.
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Put the biggest effer in there that'll fit between the frame rails.
 
no shroud on mine so far I haven't needed one ,I've been stuck sitting with a hot starter but the Champion has never failed me even in the insane prairie heat
 
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