Front end advice

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leechris81

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Location
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Hey FABO friends. I am getting the stuff together for a front end rebuild on my ‘73 Swinger. I am going to swap in a set of 1.03 bars with new adjusters and replace all BJ’s, TRE’s, and bushings. I’m going with polygraphite bushings but stockish pieces for the rest. Planning to do LCA stiffening plates as well. The only real unknown that I have left concerns the LCA pivot shaft. Is this something to replace regardless, or is it a wait and see, once it comes out? The car is a one-owner, original paint, unmolested piece with 120k on the clock. I have been keeping nearly everything stock appearing as a result so I don’t want to go tubular. Also don’t want to spend a fortune (yet). I would appreciate your input and experiences with the pivot shaft. Thanks FABO, Chris
 
That LCA shaft is pretty stout as is -I myself would re-use it-especially when you consider the drag cars at the track doing wheel stands time and again. In 40 years of front end work, I've never seen one fail. Doesn't mean it cannot happen but still..............
 
That LCA shaft is pretty stout as is -I myself would re-use it-especially when you consider the drag cars at the track doing wheel stands time and again. In 40 years of front end work, I've never seen one fail. Doesn't mean it cannot happen but still..............
That is great to hear. I have not had one out of an old Mopar yet but from what I’ve seen in pics, one would be hard pressed to tear one up. Not that it can’t be done. Thank you!
 
That LCA shaft is pretty stout as is -I myself would re-use it-especially when you consider the drag cars at the track doing wheel stands time and again. In 40 years of front end work, I've never seen one fail. Doesn't mean it cannot happen but still..............

I have never seen a factory Chrysler LCA shaft fail, but I have seen an aftermarket one break dead in half on a 100% street driven car. The car was brought to me for repair when I was an alignment tech at a local tire store years ago. When I inspected the shaft, it was apparent it had been cracked for a long time, possibly since it was made, as it had a rusted portion of the break about 1/3 the way through the break and the rest was fresh. The customer sent pictures to the company he bought them from and they refused to make them good. We replaced them with some used factory pieces. That old iron and steel was so much more dense than what is used today.
 
When the LCAs come out, inspect the tubes in the K where those pins install. The tubes on non-340 cars are known to break out. 340 Ks had a horseshoe shaped reinforcing strap welded on underneath the entrance.

My factory pins were a lil loose in the poly bushings, and in fact they became like bearings. I smoothed and greased them with O-ring grease. That was over 125,000 miles ago.

I installed the MOOG Problem-Solver upper bushings and oriented them for maximum caster.
 
I have never seen a factory Chrysler LCA shaft fail, but I have seen an aftermarket one break dead in half on a 100% street driven car. The car was brought to me for repair when I was an alignment tech at a local tire store years ago. When I inspected the shaft, it was apparent it had been cracked for a long time, possibly since it was made, as it had a rusted portion of the break about 1/3 the way through the break and the rest was fresh. The customer sent pictures to the company he bought them from and they refused to make them good. We replaced them with some used factory pieces. That old iron and steel was so much more dense than what is used today.
That’s why I asked. I couldn’t see any obvious way it would break without extensive damage elsewhere. I just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a wear aspect I was unaware of. Thanks for the help!
 
When the LCAs come out, inspect the tubes in the K where those pins install. The tubes on non-340 cars are known to break out. 340 Ks had a horseshoe shaped reinforcing strap welded on underneath the entrance.

My factory pins were a lil loose in the poly bushings, and in fact they became like bearings. I smoothed and greased them with O-ring grease. That was over 125,000 miles ago.

I installed the MOOG Problem-Solver upper bushings and oriented them for maximum caster.
That’s my intention as well. I love caster. I’m already running 4* but want to have the option to add more if I want it. Thanks a bunch. This place is great.
 
Leechris81,

I have 73’ Swinger and it is in need of front end rebuild. I wanted to see if you completed the rebuild of the front end and find out if you bought the parts as a kit or separate? If you used after market parts what manufacturer? Finally what was the biggest challenge removal or installation?

Thanks for any feedback.

Here is picture of my Dart.

F949EA08-85E8-4F9F-8ECF-521B229317A0.jpeg
 
Leechris81,

I have 73’ Swinger and it is in need of front end rebuild. I wanted to see if you completed the rebuild of the front end and find out if you bought the parts as a kit or separate? If you used after market parts what manufacturer? Finally what was the biggest challenge removal or installation?

Thanks for any feedback.

Here is picture of my Dart.

View attachment 1715291745

Man that thing is old school cool!
 
Leechris81,

I have 73’ Swinger and it is in need of front end rebuild. I wanted to see if you completed the rebuild of the front end and find out if you bought the parts as a kit or separate? If you used after market parts what manufacturer? Finally what was the biggest challenge removal or installation?

Thanks for any feedback.

Here is picture of my Dart.

View attachment 1715291745
Diggin’ the car man! As for the rebuild, I am in the middle of it all. I pulled everything and am in the process of sandblasting and painting all the parts. I kind of piecemealed everything together for my project. I ordered all of my TRE’s, BJ’s, pitman, idler from AutoZone. The T bars are PST along with the LCA plates. Removal was pretty straightforward. I teach auto tech at the local votech and I let some of my kids do a large part of the tear down. Really means a lot to these kids when I let them work on my toys. Had a group instrumental in my recent cam, intake, and 4 bbl upgrade. I’m happy to help with any questions you have along the way. There are a ton of guys on here that know more than me too though.

A3F4D950-2B31-4589-A12B-DD6EA7BBF33A.jpeg
E495AB95-153C-4583-A63E-2811B2B23B4E.jpeg
 
Leechris81,

I have 73’ Swinger and it is in need of front end rebuild. I wanted to see if you completed the rebuild of the front end and find out if you bought the parts as a kit or separate? If you used after market parts what manufacturer? Finally what was the biggest challenge removal or installation?

Thanks for any feedback.

Here is picture of my Dart.

View attachment 1715291745


We offer a full line of suspension and brake performance parts for your Dart from complete suspension kits to individual parts like torsion bars, pivot shaft, shocks, disc brake conversions and more. Also as part of the forum you are eligible for the members discount of all your orders placed and free shipping. Please visit www.p-s-t.com when you have minute and see what we can offer you.

Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
 
LC81,

Awesome, thanks for your insights and pictures. I do wish I had a lift to pull the front apart. I think I will mostly likely go with a front end poly kit and upgrade to PST T-Bars as well as better shocks. What did you decide on the LCA pivot shaft, you using the original? Do LCA plates bolt on or do you have to mode or upgrade? I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. This is a great forum. Ed
 
The 1.03" torsion bars are our most popular bars. They are happy medium between stock and the thicker performance bars. They with will give you modern handling and performance over stock without being harsh.

Thanks
James
 
The 1.03" torsion bars are our most popular bars. They are happy medium between stock and the thicker performance bars. They with will give you modern handling and performance over stock without being harsh.

Thanks
James
James,

The 1.03" torsion bars are our most popular bars. They are happy medium between stock and the thicker performance bars. They with will give you modern handling and performance over stock without being harsh.

Thanks
James
James,

Here is what I am thinking for the front end rebuild - Polygraphite Performance Super Front End Kit, 1.03" torsion bars, and Mopar Lower Control Arm Rebuilding Kit. Do you have any other components you might suggest for this project?

Thanks,

Ed
 
That is a great start, the only other recommendation to round out the rebuild would be a quality set of shocks like Bilsteins or if you want adjustability then I would go with Viking's double adjustable shocks.

Thanks
James
 
That is a great start, the only other recommendation to round out the rebuild would be a quality set of shocks like Bilsteins or if you want adjustability then I would go with Viking's double adjustable shocks.

Thanks
James
James,

Great - I have Bilstein's on my Jeep TJ and really like them. What model/part # do you suggest? I am trying to keep my efforts to one section of the car at a time - but will also do the back suspension and trying not get to far ahead of myself. I do need to do something better than the leaf spring shackles and air shocks. The guy I bought the car from put it together as the best way to get a set of P275/60R15s. The problem is the back end is floating when the car starts to slow down and when the air comes out of shocks the tires rub. Thinking coil overs and adding a sway bar? Any suggestions on keeping the back up for wider tires and better handling without breaking the bank and keeping the upgrades bolt on?

Again thanks for your time and insights.

Ed
 
James,


James,

Here is what I am thinking for the front end rebuild - Polygraphite Performance Super Front End Kit, 1.03" torsion bars, and Mopar Lower Control Arm Rebuilding Kit. Do you have any other components you might suggest for this project?

Thanks,

Ed
If you want to take it a step further you can use a slightly stiffer torsion bar and delrin lower arm bushings. They offer less deflection, longer life and quieter operation. The heavier t bar is usually necessary to avoid oversteer. Most guys tend to use too much rear spring or have the rear center of gravity too high. Adjustable shocks are a nice tuning aid but I recommend looking at mono tube type if you decide to spend the extra $$.
 
I'm generally no fan of side pipes, but those look COOL on that car for some reason. I would baffle them and leave um on.
 
If you want to take it a step further you can use a slightly stiffer torsion bar and delrin lower arm bushings. They offer less deflection, longer life and quieter operation. The heavier t bar is usually necessary to avoid oversteer. Most guys tend to use too much rear spring or have the rear center of gravity too high. Adjustable shocks are a nice tuning aid but I recommend looking at mono tube type if you decide to spend the extra $$.

Hey man thanks - I like the raised back and wider tires, but the way the leaf springs sit in the shackles with the air shocks limits handling. Trying to find a happy medium with handling and keeping the hot rod look. So welcome any suggestions for front and back suspension modes.

Regards,

Ed
 
I'm generally no fan of side pipes, but those look COOL on that car for some reason. I would baffle them and leave um on.

I am with you, when I first got the car, I was not thrilled. But, they grown on me. If I keep em' on they will need baffles as runs too loud and attracts negative attention. The other challenge is the pipes heat up and getting in and out can be high adventure as well as other folks checking it out and getting burnt. So thinking through it, but leaning towards dual out the back with Mopar square chrome exhaust tips.
 
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