Change in plans. Another new build begins
None needed buddy. Sometimes we read something quickly or on the run and post without thinking it over. I know I do. I should quit putting some details in my posts because I do think differently on some subjects and it opens up the post to the by the book guys, and 9 times out of 10 it’s something they have read in a book because they don’t actually build there own stuff. I’ve tried to shy away from some posts on head porting because I know for a fact that head won’t flow that number. That’s why I always gave guys before and after numbers from my bench. If a head flows 250 but on your bench it flows 270 it makes the guys who calibrated his bench numbers look low. But it sure helps get the sloppy guy more porting work. Don’t even get me started on dyno numbers. Lol
I am not a pro engine builder, but I have always done my own assemblies. I too do many things by the book because I do not have the knowledge to do it any other way.
I could jump in on your build and say your doing this wrong or that wrong.
But your motors run and run well indeed.
What I want to see is how "you " do it so that I might learn a different way. Such as your chamfer under the bolt hole tip.
Exactly what I want to get out of this.
Ironically my current motor will have a front and mid engine plate. I have no experience with this. Due to installation in the car issues and potential stripped aluminum threads in the timing cover, I decided that studs were required for the timing cover and motor plate. Is there a concern here or am I over thinking again lol.
No books for that kind of thing.
Just looking at the recommended
Bolt torque from Chrysler engineers, the head and main cap bolts are the same size and have 10lb difference in recommended torque, so I get what you mean entirely about books and over thinking things.