My take on the oiling system crossover tube for the small block
Thank you for your reply did not realize that you hate Chrysler and that you're promoting big block Chevys. Why are you even on for a bodies only.
Between that and you're dirty language you do not eed to respond to this thread anymore. You have proved nothing to me or anybody else other than you know how to type on your computer or telephone whichever you use.
In other words take a hike.
For the record, I don't care what you think. I've tried to explain to you why you are wrong from EXPERIENCE. But your book says otherwise. I say again, the crossover doesn't do ****, and it should have been removed from the books or corrected decades ago.
I'm pissed because some people are pissed I didn't drop everything and make the video on Sunday. **** happens. I'd bet everything I have that the video still won't convince a stiff necked fool like you anyway. But I will make a video. You can't fix an oil timing issue with a cross over and that's why the rods don't oil when the RPM goes up.
Just so you know, my friends want to compete in a small tire heads up class. Who in their right mind would use Chrysler architecture for something like that. Eventually, since both are retired, have the money and the time and some sponsors lined up, want to get to compete in stuff like No Prep Kings. So why would I tell them to run anything Chrysler????? That would be ignorant. If they want to go N/A they can build a Big Chief headed GM based engine for less than HALF of a Predator head Chrysler and it will out horsepower the Chrysler all day long. If they go with a blower in in some form, they can look at a Goodwin Hemi (at 75 grand a copy...yup that Chrysler stuff is very expensive like I say) or maybe a Brad or AJPE deal. Or, I'd rather they skip the hemi issues (yes they have issues) and use the AJPE 481X platform. I have actual experience with that. In fact, that engine was the first in the sixes and over 200 in legal AA/GS trim. Beat the Hemis to it.
I know I'm talking over your head and out of your league.
I'll make a video and explain is simple language as best I can why the crossover is stupid. You can't fix stupid and most won't listen.
As a primer for those wanting to learn, the settled, indisputable SCIENCE says you need FULL PRESSURE and FULL FLOW to the rods when the piston is approximately 70 degrees ATDC. This is SETTLED. To dispute this is ignorant. Virtually every race platform today has that oil timing, but the Chrysler does not. You can't fix that with a crossover.
Look at the SBC. When the oil feed hole in the crank is lined up with the oil feed hole in the block, the piston is ~ 70 degrees ATDC. Period. End of discussion. Now use your imagination here and think for yourself instead of relying on books that were wrong before they were typeset.
Look at a SBC and a SBM crank side by each. You will note that the oil feed hole in the crank is in the same exact location on both cranks. Now look at the blocks. I'm talking about your garden variety, junk **** SBC, not a current block with priority oiling (which is exactly the same timing to the rods, it just feeds the mains before the lifters which is the opposite of the original passenger car crap). You'll note that the oil feed hole to the crank is in the 12 o'clock position when viewing from the front of the block. Again, when the hole in the block is lined up with the hole in the crank you'll see the piston is ~ 70 degrees ATDC. Now look at the Chrysler block. You'll see that the oil feed hole is closer to 11 o'clock. And you say who cares? It's not that far. But it is. It might as well be a mile. Since the feed hole in the crank to the rods is the same as the SBC, it means that the oil to the rods for the Chrysler is WAY TOO EARLY. As RPM goes up, this magnifies the issue. At lower RPM's and power levels, you can get by with full groove mains putting oil to the rods all the time (although it eats power) and get the RPM's up higher than with 1/2 groove bearings.
You will reach the point in power and/or RPM where you can never fix or band aid the oil timing issue. You can't use a full groove main to fix it, you can't notch or groove the bearing bore to band aid it. It needs FULL PRESSURE and FLOW at the correct time. Period.
So you can argue all you want for the crossover but I just explained to you, in 9th grade English why it doesn't work. If you think I'm wrong, then by all means, tell me where I'm wrong and why and how the crossover fixes the oil timing issue.
If you can't explain why the crossover works, STOP telling people to do it.
Here is how you make a SBM live to ABOUT 7500 relatively reliably.
1. Full groove mains.
2. High volume pump with a minimum of 80 psi hot at WOT.
3. As big a pan as you can fit with a windage tray. A QUALITY crank scraper is a big help.
4. Make the inlet side of the pump as big as you can. You can't make it too big.
5. Tube the passenger side gallery and plug the drivers side gallery with a set screw in the #1 main bearing bore or bush the lifter bores. If you still think hydraulic lifters are cool, you can drill .0625 holes in the tube and put a .187 hole in the drivers side set screw. If you used bushings a .0625 hole in each bushing is more than enough oil to run the lifters.
6. Drill the feed holes from the gallery to the main bearing bores to 9/32 (.287).
7. Set your clearances correctly. If you are running a Pcar block and rods, you'll need .0025-.0028 on the rods and mains and no heavier than a 40 grade oil. If you have a good block and rods you can squeeze the mains to .0022-.0025 and the rods .0021-.0023 and nothing heavier than a 40 grade oil.
If you do that and can't make it live under 7500 you have other issues. And a crossover won't help that either.