Heater core

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Originalowner73 340duster

Originalowner73 340duster

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So I'm getting some few drips coming from the I think the heatercore its on interior from around edges of the box on passenger side under dash...has clips to open it..so if I open it does it come right off and will coolant run everywhere or is that just a housing ..???
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
So I'm getting some few drips coming from the I think the heatercore its on interior from around edges of the box on passenger side under dash...has clips to open it..so if I open it does it come right off and will coolant run everywhere or is that just a housing ..???
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The clips just hold the housing halves together and the core stays connected to the heater hoses.
That job is a lot easier if you just take the heater out.
You might find like I did that you might want to redo some of the foam on the doors inside there while it's opened up.

4 bolts under the hood around the blower motor, the J hook inside the right vent door, a wire or two and the control cables along with the defroster hoses and it's out.

heaterbox.jpg


heater ready.jpg
 
TrailBeast said:
The clips just hold the housing halves together and the core stays connected to the heater hoses.
That job is a lot easier if you just take the heater out.
You might find like I did that you might want to redo some of the foam on the doors inside there while it's opened up.

4 bolts under the hood around the blower motor, the J hook inside the right vent door, a wire or two and the control cables along with the defroster hoses and it's out.

View attachment 1715164595

View attachment 1715164596
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J hook is inside the vent ??..I'm doing tomorrow have to do intake manifold anyway..
 
Sure glad to come across this, I was looking for some input on this myself. I had seen something somewhere, on the subject of removing and they had taken the dash out and all sorts of stuff. I don't remember what it was on though. I knew, before hand, that I was going to have to go into this, but I priced a heater core through Rock Auto & it wasn't bad & with my Swinger not having A/C, I felt it shouldn't be bad. BUT, I wanted to do a little checking with you all, before I went into this.
 
Bill440cars said:
Sure glad to come across this, I was looking for some input on this myself. I had seen something somewhere, on the subject of removing and they had taken the dash out and all sorts of stuff. I don't remember what it was on though. I knew, before hand, that I was going to have to go into this, but I priced a heater core through Rock Auto & it wasn't bad & with my Swinger not having A/C, I felt it shouldn't be bad. BUT, I wanted to do a little checking with you all, before I went into this.
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Not necessary to take dash out, BUT if you take out the glove box liner (4-6 screws, then folds in half to remove out the front) you will be able to see and access the heater cable control on top of box & electrical connection(s) through glove box opening. Makes it a bit easier than feeling around blind from underneath.
 
DemonK9 said:
Not necessary to take dash out, BUT if you take out the glove box liner (4-6 screws, then folds in half to remove out the front) you will be able to see and access the heater cable control on top of box & electrical connection(s) through glove box opening. Makes it a bit easier than feeling around blind from underneath.
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Definitely appreciate that assist. Every bit helps, especially, in my case. As my body is old enough (I try to stay younger & mentally, it works pretty good, BUT, the body doesn't always cooperate.) and anything that helps, is Greatly appreciated.
 
Bill440cars said:
Definitely appreciate that assist. Every bit helps, especially, in my case. As my body is old enough (I try to stay younger & mentally, it works pretty good, BUT, the body doesn't always cooperate.) and anything that helps, is Greatly appreciated.
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No problem.......I am probably in the same boat with older body and young mind........LOL :thumbsup:
 
I took my entire box out because I'm restoring it and the floor boards. You don't have to. The clips pop right off and then you can separate the front from the back. Assuming you've removed the heater hoses and drained as much as you can, piece of cake. 4 screws hold the heater core to the box. As you pull the core out, tilt it up to help clear a flat plate on the outside of box and spill less radiator fluid. If you're getting any radiator fluid on the floorboard, it's most likely the core. Please let me know if you find a heater core that fits. I bought the Spectra and then Rock Auto specified ones and no luck. I don't fancy paying 100+ for a Year One model so please let me know what one does work.
 
I'm by no means an expert on anything BUT I mention in heater core threads I see that be VERY CAREFUL removing the clips that hold the halves of the heater box together. When putting back together make sure that you relieve some of the stress/tension in those clips. You will crack/break the bakelite.
Good luck.
 
Inspector71 said:
I took my entire box out because I'm restoring it and the floor boards. You don't have to. The clips pop right off and then you can separate the front from the back. Assuming you've removed the heater hoses and drained as much as you can, piece of cake. 4 screws hold the heater core to the box. As you pull the core out, tilt it up to help clear a flat plate on the outside of box and spill less radiator fluid. If you're getting any radiator fluid on the floorboard, it's most likely the core. Please let me know if you find a heater core that fits. I bought the Spectra and then Rock Auto specified ones and no luck. I don't fancy paying 100+ for a Year One model so please let me know what one does work.
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Year one's heater cores are around same price as others
1966-74 A B E-Body Heater Core 1970 1972 A Body Or W/O A C 1973 A Body A C (Prior-5 15 73)
 
DemonK9 said:
Year one's heater cores are around same price as others
1966-74 A B E-Body Heater Core 1970 1972 A Body Or W/O A C 1973 A Body A C (Prior-5 15 73)
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Looks like a Spectra aluminum one I bought for $37...and didn't fit. I ordered a copper/brass etc from Classic for $100 shipped. I'll let you know if it fits. I found NOS for $195. After fighting with the Spectra and then the Pro from Rock Auto, but neither fits although they are good at breaking fiberglass, I'm ready to pay more so I can finish my interior. A heater core that fits is the only hang up for my Barracuda
 
Inspector71 said:
Looks like a Spectra aluminum one I bought for $37...and didn't fit. I ordered a copper/brass etc from Classic for $100 shipped. I'll let you know if it fits. I found NOS for $195. After fighting with the Spectra and then the Pro from Rock Auto, but neither fits although they are good at breaking fiberglass, I'm ready to pay more so I can finish my interior. A heater core that fits is the only hang up for my Barracuda
Click to expand...

Yes, please let me know, as I have to replace the one in my '72 Demon....as it is fubar'd..leaks more than it circulates...lol.....and is irreparable.

I looked at NAPA ones, and they too seem to be the Spectra ones.
I am like you, price does not really matter, just want one in place so a guy has some defrost for those wet/foggy mornings if needed.
Thanks in advance!
 
DemonK9 said:
Yes, please let me know, as I have to replace the one in my '72 Demon....as it is fubar'd..leaks more than it circulates...lol.....and is irreparable.

I looked at NAPA ones, and they too seem to be the Spectra ones.
I am like you, price does not really matter, just want one in place so a guy has some defrost for those wet/foggy mornings if needed.
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
You got it. I went ahead and ordered #3. It is from Classic but, not a Spectra. Some company out of Texas. The picture shows copper and brass and the tubes appear to have the correct bends compared to my factory replacement. Worse than the cost of buying more heater cores was the damage they've done to my heater box. I , naively believed because the vendor said they were correct and an exact fit, they were. I can repair the damage up to a point. I completely rebuilt the box, sanded down every screw, bracket, door, actuator rod, the blower motor too, all new seals and gaskets, you name it, painted all of the above and it's the heater core that has stopped me in my tracks?
 
TrailBeast said:
Cheaper in the long run to get a new one than patch up an old one that has already had at least one problem.
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I'll try repairing mine seeing all the apparent angst caused by buying a new one that doesn't fit. I've already repaired my radiator so I'll give this a try.
 
If someone could tell you, yes, this one will absolutely fit, I'd go new. I have not seen this, yet. I'm trying #3 when it gets here in a week. If it too is a no-go, I'll do what you are doing. I'll have to find out what a pressure test costs, and go from there. I can't afford any more damage to my heater box.
 
markfh said:
I'll try repairing mine seeing all the apparent angst caused by buying a new one that doesn't fit. I've already repaired my radiator so I'll give this a try.
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A small amount of skill with a propane torch on the copper aftermarket ones and they fit fine.
Just soften the solder and realign the tubes as needed.
I have done this without issue, and I really can't imagine breaking the box trying to make one fit.
 
TrailBeast said:
A small amount of skill with a propane torch on the copper aftermarket ones and they fit fine.
Just soften the solder and realign the tubes as needed.
I have done this without issue, and I really can't imagine breaking the box trying to make one fit.
Click to expand...
Trail beast, one should be able buy a heater core, that claims to fit perfectly and not have to do any work. Do we buy new homes with doors that have to be cut and fit to work? The box broke because I believed the vendor's claims of a perfect fit. As the tubes pushed through the opening, one did not fit and pulled the metal plate off, stripping the screw hole. As this is old fiberglass, it does not take much to damage it. Hope that helps with your understanding.
 
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