Alignment

That’s what I remembered. It took a awhile searching in the google interwebs to find something that could work.


When I set my camber I had the front cam all the way out to start and back cam all the way inboard. That gave me -1.5 camber. I dialed the back cam bolt out to bring my camber to -0.75. Then I did my caster sweep just to see where I was at. The QA1 arms have a couple degrees built in iirc. The numbers came back +3.25/3.75. I was pretty happy with those numbers and haven’t futz with it. I did take a quick drive around the block but haven’t rechecked for suspension settlement. Eyeball test looks good though. Tracks really nice but didn’t get into any heavy testing yet. Mushy brakes I gotta fix.

I can drop the camber some and get more caster possibly but I’m not aware of the benefits of more caster than what I have now. What’s the added benefit of more caster for a street car?

I think you are fine. You maxed out with the given constraints. 3.75 pos caster is good.

IF you wanted more caster... I would do what Hotchkis showed me. They setup the adjustable strut rod length for added caster adjustment...

The outer end of lower control arm with bushing/poly has some play fore and aft. The strut rod’s job is to stabilize it. If you adjust that play so the LCA is most forward, you’ll gain additional positive caster adjustment range.

Get the T-bars unwound and shocks off. That will make the suspension loose. Then shorten the strut rod adjustment so it’s got 1/2” or so loose play back and forth.

Then grab the spindle/disk and move it up and down from ride height. While pushing it snugly forward. Then lengthen the strut rod until it’s not loose. All the while keeping the LCA it’s snug forward position. That’s the strut rod length setting. Last you lock down and tighten up the strut rod.

Also, you can just shorten up the strut rods 1/4” and see if there positive caster gain. Thing is, you don’t want to tweak or crush the LCA bushing/poly or bind the LCA by going crazy shortening the strut rod.