Alignment Specs (tubular/strut rods)

Yup, the skosh chart is pretty much the way to go. With tubular uppers you can probably get more positive caster than what's shown in the chart. If you have power steering shooting for +5° caster would be good. If you have manual steering you might not want quite that much, depends on the use of the car and tires you're running. But say -.5° camber, +3 to +5° caster, and about 1/16" toe in should work well for most street applications.

How did you set the length on the adjustable strut rods? Hopefully you cycled the suspension through its range of travel to make sure nothing was binding. The alignment shop most likely won't want anything to do with adjusting those.

Speaking of strut rods , I built a pair for the mag. force tubular front end I have . I originally used rubber bushings on the front /attached to the brackets I welded on the frame . I recently changed the rubber to a heim joint on the front , already had a heim on the rear where it attaches to the lower A arm. I did this because of the size of the rear lower A arm bolts. Too small for my liking.
Now that I`m getting new shocks to loosen the front end up, I`m wondering how I can eliminate some binding in the full travel range. Any ideas out there ??? Have even thot of going back to the rubber bushings ------
Wonder if a flexable shaft would make any diff.-trying to dream up something that will give a little and still help the lower bolts. ?????