Alignment Specs (tubular/strut rods)

famous bob said

Speaking of strut rods , I built a pair for the mag. force tubular front end I have . I originally used rubber bushings on the front /attached to the brackets I welded on the frame . I recently changed the rubber to a heim joint on the front , already had a heim on the rear where it attaches to the lower A arm. I did this because of the size of the rear lower A arm bolts. Too small for my liking.
Now that I`m getting new shocks to loosen the front end up, I`m wondering how I can eliminate some binding in the full travel range. Any ideas out there ??? Have even thot of going back to the rubber bushings ------
Wonder if a flexable shaft would make any diff.-trying to dream up something that will give a little and still help the lower bolts. ?????

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Totally different application. The magnumforce front ends that I've seen shouldn't need a strut rod at all.

The mopar torsion bar suspension needs a strut rod because the lower control arm has a single mounting point and the LCA itself is only captured on the back side by the torsion bar. Because of the design, the LCA can flex forward and aft, which would have a big effect on caster if not controlled. So the strut rod is there to limit the motion of the LCA. With a poly LCA bushing it also keeps the LCA from sliding backward on the pivot pin.

The Magnumforce LCA has two mounting points that are captured so there can only be rotational motion up and down for the LCA. So there's no reason for a strut rod at all. And adding one really wouldn't do anything for you, your concern about the LCA mounting bolt being undersized isn't mitigated by the strut rod. If strut rod is being loaded at all, the mounts are flexing, and that means damage is being done before the strut rod is involved at all.