Another Ammeter bypass question
That might have been a specific situation. When batteries are moved to the trunk or electric fuel pumps and fans are installed the circuitry is usually reworked.
This is factory main circuit for most years.
One power feed comes from the alternator.
Another power feed comes from the battery.
There is a big splice where they join. It's the primary power distribution point.
You can see what would happen if you cut the two feeds and connected them together in the engine compartment.
When we turn on the dome light, or headlights with the key off, power flows from the battery to the main splice and then on to the circuit that leads back to ground.
When the engine is running, the same thing but power flows from the alternator.
This because current flows from the highest voltage power source.
One method of reducing the current through the bulkhead connector is to run parallel wire(s).
A relatively easy way to add a parallel wire is attach it at the ammeter stud.
Current will then take the shortest or easiest path.
Lets say the battery is really low needs recharging, and the car is being driven with the lights on, wipers on.
Current flow will follow the easiest and shortest paths. Assuming the bulkhead connector is OK, just the current for recharging the battery will take the new parallel wire. That's still OK.