Another Ammeter bypass question
Putting the headlights on a relay will reduce the current flowing through the bulkhead connectors (to B1) approximately 9 amps. That's pretty significant. Not only is that going into the passenger compartment, but also back out through bulkheads on small (18 awg) wires.
Running a higher rated alternator can result in higher charging rates if the battery is run down.
This is the main circuit from the '73 Dodge FSM for a dart with the high output alternator.
Its not clear to me whether the alternator output wire through the bulkhead connector was retained, but it would work either way.
I've not seen this in real life or even photos of a real one but would certainly like to.
PS. If you don't want an ammeter, the alternator output and battery feed can both be connected together on one of the ammeter studs. Everything still gets power and a fusible link still protects everything (except the starter) from a short. You just won't know if the battery is charging.
Putting the headlights on a relay will reduce the current flowing through the bulkhead connectors (to B1) approximately 9 amps. That's pretty significant. Not only is that going into the passenger compartment, but also back out through bulkheads on small (18 awg) wires.
Running a higher rated alternator can result in higher charging rates if the battery is run down.
This is the main circuit from the '73 Dodge FSM for a dart with the high output alternator.
Its not clear to me whether the alternator output wire through the bulkhead connector was retained, but it would work either way.
I've not seen this in real life or even photos of a real one but would certainly like to.
PS. If you don't want an ammeter, the alternator output and battery feed can both be connected together on one of the ammeter studs. Everything still gets power and a fusible link still protects everything (except the starter) from a short. You just won't know if the battery is charging.