no spark in start
Oh that explains your wonky voltages.
But it doesn't explain the voltage differences between run and crank; with a jumpered ballast they should all be the same. Furthermore, why jumper the ballast? just splice everything together.
Waitaminute I think I get it.
In run; the coil voltage is battery; it cannot be otherwise
While cranking, the coil gets whatever is left over at the battery, say 10.5 or thereabouts.So then your wonky coil readings are correct.
So now the question moves to the trigger and FBO unit.
The trigger you have already proved.
So what is the FBO unit doing? There's the 64-million dollar question. Is it recognizing the pick-up signal, and if yes, why is it not firing.
Ima thinking it's time for an FBO wiring diagram
Are you looking for spark on a specific wire (not good) or near grounding the coil tower wire (best).
Here is your coil test;
Turn the key off and , and near-ground the tower-wire. Then run a jumper from the battery to the Coil plus. Next, go find a 10inch or longer flat coarse file and lay it on a fender cover with one end grounded. Grab another jumper and hook one end to the coil minus. Now drag the free end of this jumper along the file disconnecting when you run out of file. This simulates a point set trigger. You should see a stream of sparks at the coil wire. Near-ground is a gap about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. If yur welding, the coil is good. If it sparks over 1/2 inch, it's very good.
If it passes this, then remove the jumper from battery to coil plus, and instead turn on the key to run. Then repeat the dragging wire.
You shouldn't have to do any of this, cuz IIRC you have already proved the coil with another distributor subed in.
Don't forget; in crank mode that blue wire goes dead and the FBO needs a different power feed. IIRC this is a brown wire. You did connect it to the blue one didn't you? This was sorta mentioned in posts #2 and #9. Hyup I checked, it's the brown wire.
During cranking voltage to ignition comes from another source.
I assume you reattached the ground you removed
You've got a wire missing/not connected.. The ballast is bypassed/overrides during starting so that you get battery voltage to the Ignition in the key start position.
The key has an ignition start and run position and you should have a wire in the harness that will have battery voltage in the start position only. that's the one you want.
