Another Ammeter bypass question

What is the problem you want a solution to?
If you don't want to use the ammeter, then just connect the wire terminals together.
If you've added electrical equipment - a winch, EFI, anything that draws a lot of current or draws down the battery, then a different wiring strategy should be figured out.

Keep in mind that power always comes from the source with the highest voltage.
The battery's effective voltage is always 12.8 V or less.
The alternator's output voltage is controlled to be around 14.0 Volts.
Basically there is a power feed from each to the main splice.
Current flows from the battery to the main splice when the alternator voltage is less than the battery's. (typically when engine not running)
Current flows from the alternator to the main splice when it is producing enough energy to supply the demand. (typically everything when the engine is running)
Each of these power sources gets a relatively direct wire feed to the main splice. Generally this is a pretty good strategy.
Some mid 70s A-bodies split the alternator feed before going through the firewall in various way. And 67 and maybe some other years split off the horn power.
My point is you're asking about changing the wiring strategy when all it seems you want to do is not use the ammeter. The way not to use the ammeter is connect the wires together (if the ring terminal connections are in good condition, just put them together). Its very important to have a good durable connection.