Another Ammeter bypass question
ok thnks. I just came in from cleaning up the old VR and testing this again - I am getting voltmeter needle pegged (scale goes to 16V) connected to BAT stud on alternator - and just the low battery 12V reading at the positive side of battery telling me it is not getting a charging current - any ideas on why alternator is showing such a high output and yet no charging current getting to battery? I am hesitant to attach wire from alternator BAT stud direct to the starter relay with high output like that...though I guess the fusible link in there should protect starter relay and starter..will a bad VR let the alternator put out excessive voltage?
Prob should start a new thread since its not related to the OP's.
I'm going to assume the car still has stock wiring as of now.
In which case there are two things to figure out.
1. What voltage is the Voltage Regulator seeing?
2. Why isn't the battery seeing the same voltage at the alternator is producing?
For (1) measure the voltage at or as close to the regulator's blue wire.
With that and knowing the year of the car, we can start to figure out (2). Its likely the same reason, like a fault in the alternator feed such as 7milesout found
Ammeter pegged...
But it may be more, as he also found.
As far as the volts at the battery go. They do not tell us if the battery is charging. Volts at the battery tell us
potential for the battery to be charged or cooked.
Anything between 12.8 and 15 Volts at the battery positive should let it charge if needed. With higher voltage available, the faster it will charge. Too high (over 15 or so) and it will probaby start to boil off the acid.
The ammeter will show if it is charging, and if so, how much current its drawing.
For example, this little charger shows Voltage applied and current flowing.
This battery at 75% charge is pulling 3.5 amps when supplied at 13.4 Volts
Later on when its fully charged, it sucks zero amps. Voltage hasn't changed.