No Spark help

Start and Run are differnet routes.

Voltage drops when current is flowing through resistance. When there's no flow, the resistance goes away. The poor connection of course hasn't gone away, but its not causing any resistance because there's no flow. If your seening voltage drop through anything other than a resistor then two things are happening.
1 Current is flowing so so there's a connection from positive to ground. That shouldn't happen at the coil when the key is off.
2. There's high resistance in the circuit between the two voltages. Find where it drops and you've found the resistance.

You made one electric change, the electric choke. I'd suspect that first.


Some Chilton's are sometimes useful but not for stuff like this.
Bishko sells reprints.
There's also thread on FABO with a title something like Free Manuals.
I know there's a '73, I don't know about a '74.


I don't know if disconnecting the interlock wires was the correct move. Do a search on that.


I would not leap to connecting the coil directly to the battery. That's a bit risky and desperate move IMHO.

It could be as simple as one of the terminals backed out of its connector.


PS. When you see a voltage drop and the power is coming from the battery, glance at the ammeter. It shows approximately how much current is flowing out of the battery (except what goes to the starter). It should be pretty small current 2 to 5 amps for starting.

My slant 6 was already wired with an electric choke, but the 318 I bought still had the resistor for the choke, that's the only reason it was carried over. Could I keep that as is and use it to go to the electric choke? Right now it would have my dark blue wire connected to it (hot wire), but then I have a brown wire that runs back to the bulkhead connected to the other side of it. I'm not %100 what the brown wire feeds until I can get a more accurate diagram. But my thought was keep the blue there and make a jumper to my electric choke, is that ok to do?

I have since reconnected and reconnected the under the seat connections as well as reset the unit. (the car ran fine before the motor swap with the interlock so no need to take it out yet)
So far I have pulled all the bulkhead connectors and made sure they were as clean as I can get them as well as pushed as far forwards. I did this as well with the engine harness connector and the interlock connector.

I will give this a try when I am off work. Also whats the thoughts on the ECU being the issue? I have been reading that can be a big part of the issue. Would it be worth it to pick a new 5 pin up just incase?